FEATURE ARTICLES

As it celebrates its 40th anniversary, editor Tim Probert visits Silab’s 75,000 m2 headquarters near Brive-la-Gaillarde in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of south-central France. Here, he learns the secrets of Silab’s considerable success in cosmetic active ingredients

In cosmetics, retinol is well-known for its anti ageing and anti-blemish properties, yet it may cause skin irritations. Consequently, plant based alternatives like bakuchiol are gaining popularity as gentler options with similar effectiveness. Several in vivo studies have confirmed the efficacy of bakuchiol, though its formulations are still being optimized.

The United Nations estimate that by 2030 more than 60% of the world’s population will live in cities¹. This population is exposed to excessive pollution that affects the whole body and our first line of defence is our skin.

First suggested in 2005 by Dr. Christopher Wild of the International Agency for Research on Cancer, the exposome is a concept used to describe environmental exposures that an individual encounters throughout life, and how these exposures impact the skin and overall health.

­­­­CPL Aromas delves into the trends that are appearing on the market and how they are influencing the products making their way to the shelves.

Contrary to popular belief, sunburns and melanoma are not the only consequences of an unprotected long-term exposure to solar irradiation. Skin ageing, carcinomas and hyperpigmentation are some of the less-known evidences of sun-induced skin damage. Ironically, the former are caused by UVB rays that correspond to only 5% of the UV radiation that reaches the Earth and only penetrate the epidermis.

Surfactants are an essential component of a wide variety of formulations across personal care, home care, cosmetics, and industrial applications. They are prevalent in the personal care products we choose and even the packaged goods we eat.

Sensitive skin is an increasingly recognized condition within dermatology and defined by its low tolerance to everyday products, environmental and internal factors. Usually, it is without obvious physical signs but symptoms can develop as a result of certain triggers.

Ahead of this month’s in-cosmetics Korea trade show, editor Tim Probert talks to Jayanne Jin - global editor/business developer of Seoul-based The K Beauty Science and board member of Hansae Fashion Worldwide, a listed company with $1.5 billion sales – about the latest Korean cosmetic trends

Beautiful, healthy-looking hair is characterized by an optimal moisture balance. Physical and chemical stress can damage the hair cuticles, causing them to protrude and act like an open door which leads to moisture loss. It is therefore crucial to restore and retain moisture in the damaged hair fibres.

Around 60-70% of the world’s population is estimated to have some form of texture in their hair, yet this segment is still not well understood or catered for. DSM-Firmenich has been working with a specialist textured hair consultant and end consumers to develop solutions that can address this texture gap

Kalichem presents the findings of ex vivo studies said to prove the superior anti-frizz, resistance to combing, gloss and restructuring actions of its Kerashaft Alab active ingredient for hair care rinse off and leave on applications. It is based on an innovative biotech composition made of biodegradable vegetable derived oligopeptides and postbiotics

Seiwa Kasei explains why its novel amino acid derivative Aminoflora contributes to a holistic approach in advancing overall skin wellbeing by comprehensively addressing skin, scalp, and hair health

Active Concepts details the findings of an assay designed to assess the effect of active ingredients to alter dendritic cell paracrine signaling molecules to kill detrimental organisms found on the skin, and, therefore, promote commensal microbiota. The results are said to allow skin care researchers to unlock the secrets of the skin microbiome, paving the way for targeted interventions and personalized cosmetic solutions

Ahead of next month's in-cosmetics Korea trade show in Seoul on 24-26 July, event organiser RX Global takes a look at the latest K-Beauty trends

Codif Technologie Naturelle has developed Hydranov, a smart and effective moisturizer with hyaluronic acid effect for skin care, and Capiguard for hair care, fighting against pollution and protecting the hair cuticle. Est-Agar manufactures EstGel1000, which is a powdered furcellaran. As furcellaran molecules commonly exist in highly hydrated states, the substance has a high-water binding capacity, thus effectively reducing transepidermal water loss and providing moisturizing properties

Premium Organic examines the scientific research surrounding the clinical efficacy of Heilmoor extract when used in rinse-off applications. It explores its detoxifying, anti-pollution, moisturising, soothing and anti-acne properties and highlights its potential as a holistic skincare solution

Amino acids and amino acid derivatives are mild and highly biodegradable raw materials for personal care products, and because they have unique functionality as cosmetic raw materials, more applications and expanded use are expected in the future, as Ajinomoto explains

Tokuyama Corporation of Japan has commercialized a spherical silica aerogel powder, Airlica, for cosmetics applications, which is characterized by its smooth texture derived from its spherical form produced by our proprietary technology.

Chemyunion presents an in vitro study showing the action of a resurrection plant and green coffee active in reducing lipofuscin induced by ultraviolet radiation in human fibroblasts, acting as a detoxifying and protective agent. As a result of these differential mechanisms, the clinical study underscores the potential of the resurrection plant and green coffee active formulation in delivering remarkable skin brightening and pro-ageing effects