COVER STORY: Depigmenting potential of sulfur-containing peptides

A defect-free complexion is extremely important in many cultures. Even though skin pigmentation is largely determined by genetics, it is also affected by intrinsic (e.g. glycation) and extrinsic (e.g. pollution) factors that cause hyperpigmentation and the appearance of pigment disorders.

Why cosmetics compliance is due a digital makeover

Kallik explains why cosmetics firms can establish truly end-to-end digital operations for managing all global assets in a single, secure cloud-based repository, offering compliance, consistency, and reliability. This also removes the risk of future product updates and developments, which not only cost financially but also cost in terms of time-to-market and competitiveness

The anti-ageing effects of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine

Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation has developed the world’s first cosmetic ingredient containing 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH), under the trade name Repista. This article describes the cellular activation effects of the AOH active ingredient on normal human epidermal keratinocytes

Second skin technology for pollution protection

The need for year-round skin protection to support our skin against dehydration and external aggressors has inspired BASF to create a biodegradable alternative to polymer film formers that highly resembles human skin and offers all-around care

Scalp soothing properties of Portulaca oleracea

Vitalab’s scientists have harnessed the power of the medicinal plant Portulaca oleracea to develop a multifunctional ingredient offering improved cellular ability to scavenge free radicals, while reducing the release of pro-inflammatory messengers, helping to relieve sensitive-prone skin and scalp

Bioactive peptides for hair restructuring and hair plex

Italian cosmetic active producer Kalichem explains how bioactive peptides represent an ideal solution to promote plex, restructuring, hydration, combing improvement, volumising, detangling, antistatic, conditioning, and luminosity effects in hair care

The whys and wherefores of waterless formulating

Jessica Dynda of US personal ingredient supplier Koster Keunen takes a comprehensive look at the opportunities and challenges of developing solid format products and what it takes to formulate reliable and stable products successfully

Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating

École de Biologie Industrielle, Inabata France and FRM GaleSens explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products

Interview: Dr Katerina Steventon - Taking skin care beyond the surface

Editor Tim Probert discusses the future of skin care with Dr Katerina Steventon, a Czech skin scientist, consultant, practitioner, brand owner and scientific programme director of the recent 8th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference in London

Upcycled fragrance waste for cosmetic actives

IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain why upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects

Naturals: Colour without compromise

Cosmetic ingredient supplier Azelis takes a wide-ranging look at the various options available for formulators to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers for use in powders, oils and extracts

Revitalising hair beauty with aminosilicones

Since the pandemic, consumers have adopted new trends such as do-it-yourself beauty care and demanding high-performance hair care products that can achieve similar result as in a salon. BRB Silicones looks at how its aminosilicones are specially developed in response to meet this demand to provide multi benefits in conditioning, colour protection, hair shininess, hair manageability and hair smoothness

Nano olive oil as potential silicone substitute

Vietnamese outfit Wakamono is developing Nano Olive Oil, which it says is extracted from natural ingredients, safe and friendly to environment and has the potential to completely replace or reduce the use of silicone and polyquaternium in shampoo while maintaining product effectiveness

Mild cleansers with 'sulfate-free' surfactants

Innospec Performance Chemicals has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations

3D modelling of Malassezia furfur skin interaction

Straticell illustrates in a 3D model that Malassezia furfur invades the upper layers of the reconstructed epidermis with deleterious impacts on the barrier function, inducing an effective immune and inflammatory response, at both gene and protein levels

The present and future of skin microbiome testing

The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for cosmetic industries. Improving our understanding of host-microbial interactions and how to maintain its delicate balance is essential for the development of new cosmetic formulations. Here, Eurofins proposes an integrated approach to support the analysis of microbiome sequencing data by use of skin biophysical measurements

Multiethnic active for exposome protection

Lipotec has discovered a new, natural active biotech ingredient, Xpozuki, which is able to protect the skin, scalp, and hair against the exposome. On the skin and scalp, it can protect against oxidative damage, and on the hair fibre, it can protect against protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation.

Benefits of astaxanthin for anti-pollution

Austrian outfit BDI-BioLife Science has developed its own raw material containing 5% of astaxanthin. The properties of the red diamond have been substantiated by in vivo and in vitro proof of efficacy. While its effect against blue light-induced stress has already been proven in preliminary studies, the current research takes a closer look at the issue of blue light

Anti-pollution benefits of multi-tasking esterquats

US firm Stepan Personal Care initiated laboratory testing for its two novel skin and hair conditioning esterquats to see if they could provide anti-pollution properties. Test results showed Stepanquat Helia and Stepanquat Soleil can build a film on the skin and hair that then protected them against the adhesion of polluting microparticles

Carbon-14 testing to authenticate bio-based hand sanitizers

Ivanna Olvera of Miami-based radiocarbon dating service specialists Beta Analytic explains how Carbon-14 testing can be used as an accurate method to authenticate bio-based hand sanitizers.

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in-cosmetics Korea 2024

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