Anti-ageing skincare: learning from nature

Due to evolutionary flaws, we, as humans, are not equipped to age well. CLR has developed a cosmetic active ingredient harnessing decades of skin anti-ageing research by making use of postbiotics, i.e. lysates of probiotic bacteria for the benefit of the skin’s immune system. The ingredient represents the latest innovation of Bifida Ferment Lysate

Ashwagandha: adaptogenic plant for skin revival

Gattefossé has introduced an all-natural active ingredient designed to rejuvenate the skin. This innovative solution is derived from the roots of ashwagandha, a renowned adaptogenic herb. It harnesses the herb’s inherent vitality-boosting properties while acting as a shield for skin cells against various aggressors, with a specific focus on combatting digital stress

Bamboo vacuolar extract to decrease hair loss

Innovacos has developed a hair care ingredient that stimulates the expression of main skin components providing hydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. According to in vitro studies, the bamboo vacuolar extract promotes the viability of essential hair components (HHFK and HHFDPC) and prevents hair ageing increasing KAP5 expression

Energizing the skin with phytoglycogen

Mibelle Biochemistry describes a new plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, which is chemically identical to glycogen stored in animal cells. In vitro, the phytoglycogen was able to stimulate ATP production and cell metabolism, resulting in increased hyaluronic acid and collagen production

Navigating the realm of intimate care products

In recent years, there has been a surge in the development of specialised products designed to maintain and support the wellbeing of women’s intimate areas. However, there is a lack of stringent regulations governing the intimate care niche. Yet we can transform the intimate care industry into a realm of safety, efficacy, and genuine care, as Albert Dashi of Sequential explains

Silica microspheres: safe alternative to talc

Once a popular ingredient in cosmetics, talcums and baby powders, talc has come under question for its potential toxicity. Talc is a soft, smooth and natural mineral that is crushed and refined into a fine powder for use in cosmetic formulations.

A formulator’s guide to working with colourants

There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. Here, Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati, USA sets out the principles of working with three classes of colourants - dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments - that can be applied broadly to many types of cosmetic products

Formulation Lab shapes up for Paris show

The world’s leading personal care ingredients trade show, in-cosmetics Global, returns to Paris on 16-18 April. Here, event director Roziani Zulkifli gives an exclusive sneak peek of the Formulation Lab. Sponsored by Brenntag and partnered with Personal Care Global, the purpose-built, fully equipped laboratories located on the show floor will offer up to 27 sessions

INTERVIEW: Taking the long road to success

DSM-Firmenich personal care president Parand Salmassinia talks to editor Tim Probert about her fascinating journey to become global head of one of the world’s personal care ingredient suppliers, as well as her aspirations in her role at the newly-merged company

COVER STORY: Mirage Glamour Space Silver: Brilliant sparkle

Cosmetic formulators are used to working under pressure. In the past this came often from the marketing department, with requests like speeding up formulation work, developing new textures or trying truly new ingredients. In the last years, rapidly increasing external factors, like regulatory requirements, blacklists or exploding costs have added to that pressure, leading to need for constant reformulation.

Hydrolyzed protein-powered hair care

TRI-K delves into the transformative potential of hydrolyzed moringa protein-based technologies in hair care.

Mastering product development programmes

Mark Cresswell of Lucideon explains how the company was able to provide its partner with working formulations that they could take directly into more advanced consumer product testing trials and full manufacturing feasibility assessment by establishing suitable key formulations to develop successful product formats

Unlocking the potential of plant-derived peptides

Vytrus Biotech has developed a 100% natural active ingredient derived from natural Centella peptides. This Centella asiatica product offers a range of benefits, including firming, anti-sagging, anti-wrinkles, reversion of cellular senescence, and the protection of telomeres

Protecting UV-exposed hair ceramide with oat oil

The hair shaft is composed of a cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer (consisting of overlapping scale-like cells) that provides the hair sensory and shine characteristics.

A novel transdermal EGF for skincare

Salnova Nutritec & Ingredients and Fujian Longsheng Biotechnology Co. explain the benefits of a novel transdermal epidermal growth factor, a fusion protein that can be absorbed through the skin, for skincare

Depigmenting potential of sulfur-containing peptides

French cosmetic active producer Silab has developed a natural depigmenting ingredient, rich in sulfur-containing peptides obtained from the yeast Ogataea siamensis through bioguiding biotechnological processes.

The past, present and future of peptides

Sophia Bull and Joan Attia of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain what peptides are, what they do, and then we will investigate why there is so much attention on them right now

Adapting to the impact of vegan challenge testing

ISCA details its findings that demonstrates its ability to replicate initial challenge test results through an in-house vegan alternative test method. This has been achieved through ISCA’s collaboration with The Vegan Society

Microalgae: skin remedy for air pollution

Natura-Tec has developed an microalgae active ingredient derived from Pavlova lutheri that has been found to have strong protective action against pollution and environmental stress, while maintaining and restoring skin integrity and energetic metabolism

Anti-pollution efficacy of strawberry ingredient

Chiara Trabattoni of Esperis presents the promising results of in vitro studies of Strawberry Hormo Fruit - a concentrated juice, stabilized in glycerin. The studies demonstrate the benefits of the strawberry active ingredient in anti-pollution cosmetic products, where an antioxidant action is sought, together with a booster effect on cell vitality

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