FEATURE ARTICLES
Scientific foundations of liquorice in skin care
Liquorice is substantiated for cosmetic use for a range of skin care needs, as an anti-inflammatory product with benefits for skin sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and concerns such as eczema and acne. Chinese ingredient maker BGG reviews the scientific evidence for the benefits of liquorice extracts from a skin care perspective, with a focus on the bioactive compounds glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone
Polysaccharide microgels for enhanced hair care
Biopolax explains why polysaccharide microgels are an effective component for creating shampoos with enhanced chelating and cleansing properties. They combine the functional characteristics of various single components – such as thickeners, complexing agents, aesthetic appearance modifiers - without losing consumer properties
Powerful peptides for healthy-looking skin
DSM-Firmenich presents data and key findings from in vivo studies that demonstrate how a multi-peptide beauty complex leads to multiple skin benefits. These benefits include visibly smoother skin, a noticeable improvement in dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, and a visible reduction in fine lines on the crow’s feet and neck lines
Dual exosome power for skin rejuvenation
Swiss cosmetic ingredient maker Mibelle Biochemistry describes the effect of a goji stem cell active, naturally containing plant exosomes, on the skin. The active delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from outside into the skin directly acting on the epidermis to strengthen the skin barrier
Enhancing reliability in product evaluation
Before and after trials serve as invaluable tools for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic products. However, as Dermaclaim explores, their reliability and integrity depend on the strict adherence to standardized practices that not only benefits the industry but also empowers consumers
A rough guide to testing hair health
British personal care manufacturer James Robinson Speciality Ingredients explains why, while tests and numbers can indicate improvement, it is the visible and tangible difference between treated and untreated hair that will make a hair claim truly convincing
Top five Australian naturals for hair care
As consumers increasingly seek hair care products that are both effective and free from harmful ingredients, native Australian botanicals have emerged as a popular choice. Down Under Enterprises describes the top five native Australian natural ingredients for hair and scalp care
AI and cosmetics: a new era of claims washing?
Theresa Callaghan of Callaghan Consulting International explores the delicate balance between harnessing the power of AI for genuine technological breakthroughs and maintaining ethical transparency in marketing, as the line between innovation and manipulation becomes increasingly blurred
Jewel in the crown
Tanya Rajani is Mintel’s associate director for beauty and personal care for India. Here, in conversation with editor Tim Probert, Tanya discusses the current and coming beauty trends in India and worldwide for 2025 and beyond
COVER STORY: LignoBase: a sustainable powerhouse
With consumers becoming more and more critical about the impact that ingredients may have on the environment and on their health, they are increasingly seeking products that are both effective and sustainable. This so-called ‘Cleanical’ beauty trend, which focuses on clean, natural products with proven efficacy is positioned to be a driving force this 2025
Novel third-generation vitamin A derivative
Aneco has developed the third generation vitamin A - hydroxybenzophenone retinate (HPR), which has excellent stability, higher safety, and more significant efficacy. As a new generation of vitamin A derivatives, the Chinese maker believes HPR has great cosmetic market prospects
Using liposomal ellagic acid in skin care
While the environmental onslaught may be leaving its mark on human skin, there is liposomal ellagic acid for those caring to look on the bright side, as VAV Lipids explains
High purity peptide to revitalise hair and scalp
Oat Cosmetics has developed EcoPep (Avena sativa (oat) Peptide), a novel, high-purity oat peptide which revitalises hair from the scalp, promoting optimal scalp health, reducing hair fall and enhancing hair density
Unlocking wellness, tech and AI in hair care
Presperse explains how the intersection of wellness, wellbeing, technology, and AI in the hair care industry is reshaping the way we care for our hair and our scalp
Cyclic peptide: natural alternative to retinol
Clariant presents a Pseudostellaria heterophylla extract that represents a significant advancement in the field of skin care innovation. Its potent efficacy, coupled with its natural profile, positions it as a promising alternative to retinol
Skin longevity from five-flavour berry active
Greentech demonstrate that an active made from an extract of Schisandra chinensis berries can greatly improve cell longevity by slowing down the effects of time and preventing the appearance of wrinkles
The pivotal role of Bifidobacterium adolescentis
Jaka Biotech demonstrates the anti-ageing effects of Bifida Ferment Lysate, which were validated by in vitro and clinical efficacy tests. The results indicate that Bifida Ferment Lysate effectively inhibits cellular senescence and delays the formation of wrinkles
Esters for high performance cosmetics
Lubrizol Life Science describes novel esters that can provide properties such as powder binding, breakage resistance, good pigment dispersion, optimal hardness in sticks and transfer and sweat resistance for colour cosmetics
Data modeling to optimise use of sensory panels
Lucideon explains how it is harnessing machine learning for modeling the optimal use of sensory panels. This, in turn, can create a more accurate and robust product development process
In vivo assessments of hair greying treatments
DermaProof Asia describes in vivo evaluation and quantification methods of hair greying treatments, something that is becoming more relevant because of their direct relevance to the substantiation of claims.
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PCHi 2025
China Import and Export Fair Complex Guangzhou
19-21 February 2025
in-cosmetics Global 2025
RAI Amsterdam
8th - 10th April 2025