FEATURE ARTICLES

Skin ageing is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, where inflamm’ageing plays a key role. This chronic inflammation, exacerbated by UV exposure, pollution, and oxidative stress, progressively deteriorates the skin by reducing collagen production and diminishing its radiance and suppleness.

Consumers, especially Generation Z, are looking for transparent, open brands who are truthful to the very core. These sustainable, green, traceable, upcycled and respectful to the environment brands are thriving. Clare Goodwin of Infinity Ingredients explores the best of what Mother Nature has to offer for suitably sustainable cosmetics

Bioingre Bioingredients Research and Esperis have joined forces to develop an active ingredient that blends modern advanced technology with the ancient wisdom of indigenous Mexican plants, thereby honouring centuries-old traditions while promoting innovation in modern skin and hair care

Today’s consumers seek natural ingredients that are gentle, yet just as luxurious on the skin as synthetic alternatives. In recognition of these demands, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has spent the last five years developing a solution that both simplifies the formulator’s task and meets these multifaceted expectations. The result is a groundbreaking, surfactant-free emulsifier with dual activity

Italian cosmetic actives maker Kalichem documents the benefits of its biomimetic hydroxyapatite ingredient, Deohap Dry (main active and excipients INCI: Calcium/ Magnesium/Zinc Hydroxyapatite, clay minerals, zinc PCA), as a solution for sweat and odour control, offering good performance and versatility across various cosmetic applications

One side-effect of rapid weight loss drugs like Ozempic from a cosmetic standpoint is visually apparent ‘ageing’ of the face. This arises in the form of crepey or saggy skin and wrinkles. In fact, it has become so ubiquitous that it is termed ‘Ozempic face’. Mehran Ghadim of Grant Industries looks at how Ozempic changes skin, and what can be done about it – from the inside

With more than 30 years of expertise, SILAB is a major player in the development of natural tensors of plant origin (or phytotensors). The force of its innovation is based on its unique capacity to combine for each generation of phytotensors, a new technology and scientifically proven performance in terms of efficacy, sensoriality, formulability and long-lasting effects (figure 1).

Cobiosa and Rubisco Biotechnology describe the promising development of a stem cell extract from the leaf of Aristotelia chilensis, also known as maqui or Chilean wineberry. This active ingredient has been shown to be an antioxidant, a good promoter of type I collagen synthesis, reduce melanin synthesis and prevent reactions that trigger MMP-1

Liquorice is substantiated for cosmetic use for a range of skin care needs, as an anti-inflammatory product with benefits for skin sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and concerns such as eczema and acne. Chinese ingredient maker BGG reviews the scientific evidence for the benefits of liquorice extracts from a skin care perspective, with a focus on the bioactive compounds glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone

Biopolax explains why polysaccharide microgels are an effective component for creating shampoos with enhanced chelating and cleansing properties. They combine the functional characteristics of various single components – such as thickeners, complexing agents, aesthetic appearance modifiers - without losing consumer properties

DSM-Firmenich presents data and key findings from in vivo studies that demonstrate how a multi-peptide beauty complex leads to multiple skin benefits. These benefits include visibly smoother skin, a noticeable improvement in dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, and a visible reduction in fine lines on the crow’s feet and neck lines

Swiss cosmetic ingredient maker Mibelle Biochemistry describes the effect of a goji stem cell active, naturally containing plant exosomes, on the skin. The active delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from outside into the skin directly acting on the epidermis to strengthen the skin barrier

Before and after trials serve as invaluable tools for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic products. However, as Dermaclaim explores, their reliability and integrity depend on the strict adherence to standardized practices that not only benefits the industry but also empowers consumers

British personal care manufacturer James Robinson Speciality Ingredients explains why, while tests and numbers can indicate improvement, it is the visible and tangible difference between treated and untreated hair that will make a hair claim truly convincing

As consumers increasingly seek hair care products that are both effective and free from harmful ingredients, native Australian botanicals have emerged as a popular choice. Down Under Enterprises describes the top five native Australian natural ingredients for hair and scalp care

Theresa Callaghan of Callaghan Consulting International explores the delicate balance between harnessing the power of AI for genuine technological breakthroughs and maintaining ethical transparency in marketing, as the line between innovation and manipulation becomes increasingly blurred

Tanya Rajani is Mintel’s associate director for beauty and personal care for India. Here, in conversation with editor Tim Probert, Tanya discusses the current and coming beauty trends in India and worldwide for 2025 and beyond

With consumers becoming more and more critical about the impact that ingredients may have on the environment and on their health, they are increasingly seeking products that are both effective and sustainable. This so-called ‘Cleanical’ beauty trend, which focuses on clean, natural products with proven efficacy is positioned to be a driving force this 2025

Aneco has developed the third generation vitamin A - hydroxybenzophenone retinate (HPR), which has excellent stability, higher safety, and more significant efficacy. As a new generation of vitamin A derivatives, the Chinese maker believes HPR has great cosmetic market prospects

While the environmental onslaught may be leaving its mark on human skin, there is liposomal ellagic acid for those caring to look on the bright side, as VAV Lipids explains