Scientific foundations of liquorice in skin care

Liquorice is substantiated for cosmetic use for a range of skin care needs, as an anti-inflammatory product with benefits for skin sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and concerns such as eczema and acne. Chinese ingredient maker BGG reviews the scientific evidence for the benefits of liquorice extracts from a skin care perspective, with a focus on the bioactive compounds glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone

With sustainability, eco-awareness and naturality now cemented as mainstream consumer concerns worldwide, demand for plant-based ingredients is rising. The global beauty and personal care (BPC) market is no exception, with consumers demonstrating a growing preference for natural solutions. NielsenIQ market research, for example, shows that 18% of all BPC sales feature products incorporating botanic extracts.1

Liquorice fits this trend as a clinically supported botanical ingredient. The herbaceous perennial has been a mainstay of traditional medicine systems for thousands of years for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.2 Today, these attributes and its positioning as a natural, sustainable ingredient are leading to liquorice's increasing incorporation in modern skin care products.

This article reviews the scientific evidence for the benefits of liquorice extracts from a skin care perspective, with a focus on the bioactive compounds glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone A and their use for specific skin conditions. These include hyperpigmentation, sun-ageing, eczema, rosacea, skin sensitivity, acne and subcutaneous fat reduction.

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