A formulator’s guide to working with colourants

There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. Here, Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati, USA sets out the principles of working with three classes of colourants - dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments - that can be applied broadly to many types of cosmetic products

Colour provides crucial information about the world around us. Colour also plays a significant role in cosmetics and personal care products that extends beyond the obvious example of makeup. Colour can be important in differentiating products from one another on shelf, signaling efficacy, or reinforcing hero ingredients and fragrance. 

A change in colour can also signal the degradation of raw materials, which can negatively impact product performance and consumer acceptability. There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. 

While there are additional specialty colourants (that include aluminum powder and luminescent zinc sulfide with their own unique regulatory and end-use limitations), the focus of this article is the use of the three broad categories colourants: dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments

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