FEATURE ARTICLES
Making sense of senses for anti-ageing cosmetics
While the demand of consumers for proof behind claims is higher than ever, cutting-edge methods are emerging with smart instrumental approach; opening the way to new skincare claims considering holistically all senses. Codif explains how, thanks to tribology, we are now able to study the benefits of anti-ageing strategy on the texture of the skin through its vibrations and the ‘song’ it emits
Fermented bioactive for versatile anti-ageing
Bloomage Biotech has harnessed natural green fermentation methods to create ingredients that target multiple anti-ageing pathways to strengthen the barrier of the skin, providing protection against pollutants and UV radiation
Anti-ageing skincare: learning from nature
Due to evolutionary flaws, we, as humans, are not equipped to age well. CLR has developed a cosmetic active ingredient harnessing decades of skin anti-ageing research by making use of postbiotics, i.e. lysates of probiotic bacteria for the benefit of the skin’s immune system. The ingredient represents the latest innovation of Bifida Ferment Lysate
Ashwagandha: adaptogenic plant for skin revival
Gattefossé has introduced an all-natural active ingredient designed to rejuvenate the skin. This innovative solution is derived from the roots of ashwagandha, a renowned adaptogenic herb. It harnesses the herb’s inherent vitality-boosting properties while acting as a shield for skin cells against various aggressors, with a specific focus on combatting digital stress
Bamboo vacuolar extract to decrease hair loss
Innovacos has developed a hair care ingredient that stimulates the expression of main skin components providing hydration and helping regenerate the hair structure. According to in vitro studies, the bamboo vacuolar extract promotes the viability of essential hair components (HHFK and HHFDPC) and prevents hair ageing increasing KAP5 expression
Energizing the skin with phytoglycogen
Mibelle Biochemistry describes a new plant-based glycogen, isolated from a special non-GMO sweetcorn, which is chemically identical to glycogen stored in animal cells. In vitro, the phytoglycogen was able to stimulate ATP production and cell metabolism, resulting in increased hyaluronic acid and collagen production
Navigating the realm of intimate care products
In recent years, there has been a surge in the development of specialised products designed to maintain and support the wellbeing of women’s intimate areas. However, there is a lack of stringent regulations governing the intimate care niche. Yet we can transform the intimate care industry into a realm of safety, efficacy, and genuine care, as Albert Dashi of Sequential explains
Silica microspheres: safe alternative to talc
Once a popular ingredient in cosmetics, talcums and baby powders, talc has come under question for its potential toxicity. Talc is a soft, smooth and natural mineral that is crushed and refined into a fine powder for use in cosmetic formulations.
A formulator’s guide to working with colourants
There is considerable art, as well as science, in developing products that meet consumer demand for attractive and functional cosmetics. Here, Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati, USA sets out the principles of working with three classes of colourants - dyes, pigments and pearlescent effect pigments - that can be applied broadly to many types of cosmetic products
Formulation Lab shapes up for Paris show
The world’s leading personal care ingredients trade show, in-cosmetics Global, returns to Paris on 16-18 April. Here, event director Roziani Zulkifli gives an exclusive sneak peek of the Formulation Lab. Sponsored by Brenntag and partnered with Personal Care Global, the purpose-built, fully equipped laboratories located on the show floor will offer up to 27 sessions
INTERVIEW: Taking the long road to success
DSM-Firmenich personal care president Parand Salmassinia talks to editor Tim Probert about her fascinating journey to become global head of one of the world’s personal care ingredient suppliers, as well as her aspirations in her role at the newly-merged company
COVER STORY: Mirage Glamour Space Silver: Brilliant sparkle
Cosmetic formulators are used to working under pressure. In the past this came often from the marketing department, with requests like speeding up formulation work, developing new textures or trying truly new ingredients. In the last years, rapidly increasing external factors, like regulatory requirements, blacklists or exploding costs have added to that pressure, leading to need for constant reformulation.
Hydrolyzed protein-powered hair care
TRI-K delves into the transformative potential of hydrolyzed moringa protein-based technologies in hair care.
Mastering product development programmes
Mark Cresswell of Lucideon explains how the company was able to provide its partner with working formulations that they could take directly into more advanced consumer product testing trials and full manufacturing feasibility assessment by establishing suitable key formulations to develop successful product formats
Unlocking the potential of plant-derived peptides
Vytrus Biotech has developed a 100% natural active ingredient derived from natural Centella peptides. This Centella asiatica product offers a range of benefits, including firming, anti-sagging, anti-wrinkles, reversion of cellular senescence, and the protection of telomeres
Protecting UV-exposed hair ceramide with oat oil
The hair shaft is composed of a cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer (consisting of overlapping scale-like cells) that provides the hair sensory and shine characteristics.
A novel transdermal EGF for skincare
Salnova Nutritec & Ingredients and Fujian Longsheng Biotechnology Co. explain the benefits of a novel transdermal epidermal growth factor, a fusion protein that can be absorbed through the skin, for skincare
Depigmenting potential of sulfur-containing peptides
French cosmetic active producer Silab has developed a natural depigmenting ingredient, rich in sulfur-containing peptides obtained from the yeast Ogataea siamensis through bioguiding biotechnological processes.
The past, present and future of peptides
Sophia Bull and Joan Attia of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain what peptides are, what they do, and then we will investigate why there is so much attention on them right now
Adapting to the impact of vegan challenge testing
ISCA details its findings that demonstrates its ability to replicate initial challenge test results through an in-house vegan alternative test method. This has been achieved through ISCA’s collaboration with The Vegan Society
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in-cosmetics Korea 2025
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