FEATURE ARTICLES

Cosmetic and personal care products serve as an ideal medium for microbial growth. Formulators must develop products that are resistant to microbial contamination for safety and regulatory compliance. Ways in which microbes may be introduced: raw materials can be a source of bioburden, unsanitized machinery, packaging contamination, consumer use, etc.

Mitsubishi Corporation Life Sciences has succeeded in producing a new complex polysaccharide from yeast cell walls that had been discarded after fermentation.

The global beauty trend is shifting from ‘skin whitening’, which depends on one's natural skin colour, to ‘skin brightening’, which is a borderless concept. Whiteness is defined as skin colour based on the amount of melanin, the black pigment produced by melanocytes.

A longstanding staple in skin care routines, the humble facial cleanser has often been seen as the most basic step in cleansing regimens and overlooked by consumers as a step that can help to deliver benefits to the skin.

LipoTrue describes a marine ingredient derived from a newly identified Alteromonas species (Alteromonas lipotrueae) that relaxes expression wrinkles acting along the three steps of neuromuscular communication

DSM-Firmenich reveals the findings of research that shows how a Epilobium fleischeri extract can selectively clear senescent cells – so-called ‘zombie’ cells - from the skin.

Vantage has developed a new form of azelaic acid in which the acid is presolubilized in a mild skin emollient. It has been shown that delivery of dissolved azelaic acid can show superior performance to suspended azelaic acid and can help to improve the inflammatory effects of topically applied salicylic acid

Rahn describes an active ingredient that targets a disbalanced scalp microbiota, an oily and sensitive scalp, providing relief from scalp discomfort

Gattefossé has developed an original blend of lipophilic metabolites that offers cosmetic brands a versatile solution capable of addressing various signs of fatigue simultaneously

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, in collaboration with the Infinity Institute in France, has discovered a new protein: LCE6A. LCE6A, part of the ‘Late Cornified Envelope’ protein family, is known to be essential for the mechanical resistance of the corneocytes in the stratum corneum

Lipoid Kosmetik demonstrates how a combination of bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids offers retinol-like activity with superior performance over bakuchiol formulations without phospholipids

Naolys describes how certain active plant cells are highly reliable as bioactive ingredients to induce the right defensive mechanism against oxidative stress

Provital takes the wraps off Triplobiome, a biotech platform that uses plant endophytes to produce new natural active ingredients. Shiloxome, the first ingredient developed from this platform, brings together age-defying benefits while protecting the skin

In vitro methods cannot capture all complexities in the body that occur during in vivo tests. Nevertheless, they are an indispensable part of the evaluation process of product effects on the skin. The various in vitro measurement methods are on the rise and will become increasingly important in the future, as Courage + Khazaka explains

Replacement of synthetic ingredients with natural ingredients is not as simple as removal of each material one by one and substituting it, as Alchemy Ingredients explains in depth

By industrialization of whole-cell enzyme technology, Nikko Chemicals has developed a multi-functionalized lecithin as a product with high naturality and sustainability. This ingredient can do multiple tasks to improve the skin barrier

Berg + Schmidt describes a new ingredient for natural and globally approved oil gels, transforming textures and new playful concepts

Orean head of process chemistry Sarah Lucas Marsden explains the key principles for a successful scaling up of formulations from lab to shelf.

CLR reveals the results of a study that compares the skin benefits of its natural upcycled active ingredient Cherimoya with a placebo plus facial massage.

UK startup Kutanios explains why new sun care ingredients that offer better protection from the effects of UV light, and are non- absorbable, more stable and eco-friendly would be welcome additions to the personal care sector