FEATURE ARTICLES

“Age-defy”, “slow-age”, “well-ageing” are increasingly replacing the term “anti-age” on packaging and in advertising campaigns for cosmetic products. In the press, young women are also making a little more room for their elders (fifty and above). This is the pro-age trend, which consists of moving away from the beauty ideal defined by eternal youth.

Skin is a complex environment where billions of microorganisms live providing a unique environment for each host, collectively referred to as the skin micriobiota. Skin microbiota is, therefore, the result of an equilibrium between protective and pathogens species of those microorganisms.

Nowadays, consumers understand that leading a too active lifestyle can take a toll on their skin. They are familiar with having a dull complexion, with dryness and puffiness in some areas and realise that, in the long term, little rest leads to an accelerated appearance of ageing signs.

Despite the growing interest of consumers in natural makeup and sun care, brands struggle to develop effective and sensory products. The blame is laid on the insufficient supply of ingredients, which does not make it possible to solve recurrent problems of stability of this kind of formulations.

Deuteration is the process in which all or some of the hydrogen (1H or H) atoms of a compound are replaced by the stable (nonradioactive) heavier isotope of hydrogen, deuterium (2H or D). Different isotopes of the same element exhibit nearly identical chemical behaviour.

The skin microbiota is a collection of bacteria, fungi, viruses and microscopic animals that we collected during our lifetime. These microorganisms have become an essential part of the epidermis.1

How, and to what extent, do certain bacteria in the skin microbiome influence skin conditions such as dryness or oiliness? DSM’s scientists have been investigating and for the first time, in a new, all-in-one, multicentre clinical study, they have demonstrated a link between changes in the composition of the skin microbiome and changes in physical skin conditions.

Our skin is colonised by microorganisms, bacteria, fungi and viruses, sometimes even mites. All together, they form the so-called skin microbiome and are essential for our health.

Within the beauty industry, East is meeting West with the Asiafication of the cosmetics industry in the US and Europe, with K-beauty and J-beauty brands becoming more and more popular in western countries but what about C-beauty?

The synergy between the skin and its individual network of commensal microflora is a trending topic and the market is quickly becoming saturated with different probiotic products targeted towards skin care.

The task of preserving personal care ingredients has never been more tricky. It was never an easy job in the first place, balancing the need to protect the user’s skin with the need to ensure the product is safe to use for a suitable amount of time.

The Asian beauty and personal care market has seen explosive growth over the last decade and continues to evolve, powered by new trends such as a demand for natural ingredients, novel product concepts and beauty for all genders.

The diversity of life remains one of the most striking aspects of our blue planet. It is estimated that about 195,000 Eukaryotes species are catalogued in oceans and more than 2,200,000 are predicted. These data include Animalia, Chromista, Fungi, Plantae and Protozoa without any precise mention for microalgae and macroalgae.1

Cosmetic anti-pollution products have a strong growing potential due to the increase of pollution all around the world.

Fucoidans are unique fucose-rich polysaccharides naturally found in the cell walls of brown seaweed. They are highly bioactive compounds that play a pivotal role in protecting seaweed from water-borne pathogens and damage caused by ultraviolet light (UV). Extensive research has shown that fucoidan extracts can similarly impart protective effects on the skin and have diverse benefits in dermatological applications.

Even 2000 years ago, the Romans understood the need to clean their teeth and used crushed ashes, soda and myrrh as their dentifricium.

It is widely recognised that a toned and well moisturised skin can be maintained only if the superficial layers of the epidermis are able to fully accomplish their barrier function, protecting the deepest and delicate areas of the derma from sensitising agents and controlling permeability and transpiration of the physiological water present in the intercellular spaces.

The story of aesthetic butters mirrors in many ways the evolution of cosmetic product development over the years. Our customers have always needed ingredients that work well in formulations.

Waxes are a crucial tool for formulators, modifying skin-feel while also assisting in waterproofing and improving resistance to rub-off.

More than 70% of consumers say that they use cosmetic products to improve their quality of life. 80% use cosmetics to improve self-esteem.