FEATURE ARTICLES

Since the global success of BB and CC creams in the West, brands and manufacturers are on the lookout for the next successful innovation coming from South Korea and cushion has the potential to take this route. Cushion compacts carry many benefits of what consumers look for in facial cosmetics, including long wear, flawless coverage, added benefits and easy-to-use format.

Natural and organic cosmetic products now account for 3% of all cosmetic sales across the world (source: Organic Monitor).

Trends in personal care continue their rapid rate of change – products that do more, increasing demands for efficiencies, faster acting, multifunctional uses, etc. The challenge is to respond with products that push the limits and to develop concepts that find an edge in the market.

A major unmet need of the cosmetic industry is the effective, natural and safe means to protect and detoxify the skin against environmental pollution to which it is exposed daily.

Syn®-Coll, the synthetic tripeptide from DSM, simultaneously boosts collagen production and protects against collagen degradation –two major factors in maintaining the structural integrity of skin.

Currently synthetic peptides are a big trend and mainly used for cosmeceuticals and/or dermocosmetics thanks to their high efficacy and purity as well as reduced side effects. But these days numerous peptides are developed and consumers are already struggling to distinguish them. Even worse, manufacturers sometimes face the same difficulties with completely new peptides.

The colour-fading of hair treated with oxidative dyes is attributed to the effects of ultraviolet light and other environmental factors, but mostly it occurrs during shampooing. This effect is caused by the diffusion of chromaphores from within the cortex towards the cuticle surface. The colour fading of dyed hair during shampoo washing is determined by a range of factors, most significantly by the chemistry of the chromaphores, the porosity of the hair fibres, and the properties of the used surfactants.

The UK has a very active and visible consumer protection culture with high profile TV programmes and magazines fighting the side of the consumer against unscrupulous companies, both large and small. Their reports have a great impact on the buying decisions of the British public and reputations can be enhanced or severely damaged. Personal care products feature regularly, and in May it was the turn of sun protection products to be assessed by the magazine, Which?.

For many people, the term ‘halal’ may only bring to mind signs outside butchers and the like. However, new regulations that quietly passed in Indonesia last autumn will soon bring it to the forefront of the beauty world, having implications for all multinational cosmetic and toiletry marketers – both inside and outside of the country.

In our fast-paced world there is one megatrend that has dominated for well over a decade. No other trend can even start to compete with ‘naturalness’.

Tight, moisturised skin is a universal symbol of youth and health, and the desire for skin perfection is a global beauty endeavour among consumers. Given the world’s ageing population, the market for products that support the vitality and wellbeing of skin at any age can only continue to grow.

In its search for innovative cells with a lightening effect, Naolys has developed a new strain of cell from a plant species that is rarely used in cosmetics: poet’s narcissus.

in-cosmetics Asia returns to Bangkok from the 3-5 November, where some 400 global suppliers will showcase their products to over 6,500 Asian cosmetic manufacturers and distributors.

Emulsions are defined as fine dispersions of very small droplets of one liquid in another in which it is not soluble or miscible.1 Continued research and innovation in the cosmetic industry to satisfy the costumer’s expectations has increased in recent decades regarding emulsions. New forms such as nanoemulsions or microemulsions are no longer concepts only found in laboratories of fundamental research but through the development of concrete products delivered right into the market.

Barcelona has always been a popular location, thanks to its stunning architecture, warm climate and vibrant culture. The 8,578 unique visitors to Gran Fira, Barcelona for in-cosmetics 2015 certainly suggested that the city can attract many cosmetic industry professionals, and the figure represents the highest number for any event outside of Paris in the exhibition’s history. This also represented an increase of 18 per cent (pre-audit) on last year’s show in Hamburg.

This article looks at the impact that Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 commonly referred to as ‘CLP’ is having on the regulation of cosmetic products. It looks at the classification of some of the ingredients listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and how this may affect their future use.

Lip oil is a novel delivery platform designed to provide nourishment and colour to the lips. The trend was sparked with the launch of Clarins Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil1 which the brand describes as: “a lip care treatment infused with all the power of plant oils to nourish and enhance your lips’ natural beauty.” This launch was followed with Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) introducing Volupte Tint-in-Oil2 which YSL describes as a: “revolutionary lip color with a lip tint suspended in a deep conditioning oil.”

The world of naturals in cosmetics is evolving dramatically. A truly natural positioning is increasingly important to consumers and naturals are also becoming more important due to their association with sustainability. However, consumers are not prepared to compromise on product performance and these drivers accompanied by developments in technology mean we have moved a long way from simple natural material additions to today’s complex formulations.

Since March 2013, the animal testing ban for cosmetics has been fully implemented in the European Union. The ban applies irrespective of the availability of test alternatives for most of the hazard areas of interest in human safety assessments and a derogation mechanism is not in place. For some hazard areas the development of in vitro alternative methods will still take many years.

Making Cosmetics 2015 took place on 24-25 March at the Ricoh Arena, Coventry, UK. The show has been increasing its presence in the cosmetics industry over the past three years since its inception, and now represents one of the key dates on the European calendar, which is quite an achievement in such a short space of time.