FEATURE ARTICLES

When the word wax is mentioned, what first comes to mind is beeswax, one of the world’s most ancient cosmetic ingredients. Beeswax has being used in herbal ointments for thousands of years to create a protective film on the skin and to deliver phyto-actives and fragrant material. By Dr Barbara Olioso - The Green Chemist Consultancy, UK.

Waxes and butters can provide personal care formulations with a wide range of benefits. From thickening, hair styling, and moisturising, to exfoliation and gloss enhancement.

Scientists have known about the existence of infrared radiation (IR) as long as they have known about the existence of ultraviolet (UV). Links between UV light and sunburn were reported since the 1920s and the first sunscreen containing a UV-filtering agent was commercialised by Eugene Schueller (the French founder of L’Oréal) in 1936. Contrary to IR radiation that was associated with skin damage and premature ageing only recently.

Skin homeostasis changes with ageing. The most important cellular mechanisms for skin ageing are stem cell exhaustion, genomic instability, mitochondrial dysfunction with oxidative stress and senescence.

Sinerga’s Dolcevia® (INCI: Stevioside) is a natural pure glycoside extracted from the dry leaves of the well-known Stevia rebaudianaplant.

Women aged 18-44 are generally the prime target for hair colourant brands. As the population is ageing, brands need to increasingly focus on older adults to develop their portfolio.

All cosmetic products placed on the European Union (EU) market must comply with the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, a legislation which has been in force since July 2013.

Growth in non-animal testing on new cosmetic products or ingredients is a response to developing science and the increasing public pressure to find alternatives to the traditional animal testing methods.

Colour cosmetics, sustainability, natural ingredients and innovation & science were the focal point of this year’s successful in-cosmetics Global event, as international personal care manufacturers congregated in London to identify the trends and novel ingredients that will help them create inspiring new products.

The major cosmetic trends of naturals, facial masks and colour cosmetics are driving substantial growth within the beauty and personal care market across APAC – and these will be under the spotlight for the first time at in-cosmetics Asia 2017 from 31 October – 2 November.

The eye contour is one of the most popular targets for anti-ageing treatments. There are three symptoms to address for an eye contour treatment: crow’s feet wrinkles, dark circles and puffy eyes.

Formation of fine wrinkles during the photo-ageing of skin is caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. Therefore, it is very important to quickly scavenge the ROS generated in skin. Applying a radical scavenger such as an antioxidant to skin is effective for the prevention of wrinkles

Environmental factors such as UV radiation or pollution contribute to the production of highly reactive molecules involved in extrinsic skin ageing. The increase of these free radicals in cells enhances oxidative stress leading to protein oxidation.

Silicone polymers have the unique ability to lower the surface tension of organic oils and thereby present a different aesthetic effect in cosmetic formulations. This allows silicone polymers to be added at less than 10% concentration and often less than 5% concentration and provide a different customer experience than achieved by standard silicones.

Volatile linear silicones are low molecular weight fluids (varying from 0.65 cSt to 2 cSt) which are excellent clear odourless emollients for personal care.

The world’s ocean biodiversity is an endless source of new active ingredients. In the past 30 years, interest has been growing for marine products and especially microalgae for cosmetics, pharmacy, food and bioenergy applications.

Cosmetic scrub products are made from exfoliating particles which use a mechanical action to scrub the skin. The exfoliating ingredients are small abrasive grains of calibrated size. Several types of raw materials can be used. The characteristics of the exfoliating particles vary according to the origin of the raw material.

Natural cosmetic and personal care products have long since developed beyond another trend. Products that are heavily promoted for their natural content are the ‘new normal’ and as such ingredient suppliers are investing extensively in developing new natural ingredients that deliver on efficacy as well as their positive INCI names.

Pollution and its impact on the skin have recently become the main topic at all important cosmetic events, and products claiming to protect the skin from pollution effects are a major trend in the cosmetic and personal care industry

The harmful effect of pollution on health is a well-recognised fact that no one denies anymore. The consequences of air, water, soil and food contaminants can be felt in many organs. Even noise pollution, which is less remarked, has detrimental effects on human health and behaviour.