FEATURE ARTICLES

Women aged 18-44 are generally the prime target for hair colourant brands. As the population is ageing, brands need to increasingly focus on older adults to develop their portfolio.

All cosmetic products placed on the European Union (EU) market must comply with the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, a legislation which has been in force since July 2013.

Growth in non-animal testing on new cosmetic products or ingredients is a response to developing science and the increasing public pressure to find alternatives to the traditional animal testing methods.

Colour cosmetics, sustainability, natural ingredients and innovation & science were the focal point of this year’s successful in-cosmetics Global event, as international personal care manufacturers congregated in London to identify the trends and novel ingredients that will help them create inspiring new products.

The major cosmetic trends of naturals, facial masks and colour cosmetics are driving substantial growth within the beauty and personal care market across APAC – and these will be under the spotlight for the first time at in-cosmetics Asia 2017 from 31 October – 2 November.

The eye contour is one of the most popular targets for anti-ageing treatments. There are three symptoms to address for an eye contour treatment: crow’s feet wrinkles, dark circles and puffy eyes.

Formation of fine wrinkles during the photo-ageing of skin is caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. Therefore, it is very important to quickly scavenge the ROS generated in skin. Applying a radical scavenger such as an antioxidant to skin is effective for the prevention of wrinkles

Environmental factors such as UV radiation or pollution contribute to the production of highly reactive molecules involved in extrinsic skin ageing. The increase of these free radicals in cells enhances oxidative stress leading to protein oxidation.

Silicone polymers have the unique ability to lower the surface tension of organic oils and thereby present a different aesthetic effect in cosmetic formulations. This allows silicone polymers to be added at less than 10% concentration and often less than 5% concentration and provide a different customer experience than achieved by standard silicones.

Volatile linear silicones are low molecular weight fluids (varying from 0.65 cSt to 2 cSt) which are excellent clear odourless emollients for personal care.

The world’s ocean biodiversity is an endless source of new active ingredients. In the past 30 years, interest has been growing for marine products and especially microalgae for cosmetics, pharmacy, food and bioenergy applications.

Cosmetic scrub products are made from exfoliating particles which use a mechanical action to scrub the skin. The exfoliating ingredients are small abrasive grains of calibrated size. Several types of raw materials can be used. The characteristics of the exfoliating particles vary according to the origin of the raw material.

Natural cosmetic and personal care products have long since developed beyond another trend. Products that are heavily promoted for their natural content are the ‘new normal’ and as such ingredient suppliers are investing extensively in developing new natural ingredients that deliver on efficacy as well as their positive INCI names.

Pollution and its impact on the skin have recently become the main topic at all important cosmetic events, and products claiming to protect the skin from pollution effects are a major trend in the cosmetic and personal care industry

The harmful effect of pollution on health is a well-recognised fact that no one denies anymore. The consequences of air, water, soil and food contaminants can be felt in many organs. Even noise pollution, which is less remarked, has detrimental effects on human health and behaviour.

A key trend that will impact Asia Pacific’s beauty and personal care industry in 2017 is ‘Active Beauty’. Consumers are being encouraged to exercise their bodies and brains, and beauty brands will formulate products to help them in their quest for health and fitness.

Since 2015, in-cosmetics Korea has been attracting exhibitors and visitors to the South Korean capital of Seoul with the aim of benefiting from the country’s worldleading scientific and technological infrastructure.

Natural, organic, green, sustainable - these are buzzwords we are bombarded with every day as consumers, marketeers and scientists. However, many of these words hide a world of confusion and discussion within the cosmetic industry.

Olive squalane has seen a tremendous increase in consumption since shark liver oil was prohibited in cosmetics in Europe. Its exceptional sensorial profile including an excellent skin biocompatibility with a moisturising effect made it a favourite with cosmetic formulators.

Epigenetics is gaining strong interest in the cosmetics field, being understood as an alternative but powerful approach to control biological processes such as skin ageing. Inspired by this concept, the new Reproage™ peptide was launched. After several efficacy tests, the cosmetic active ingredient showed to help skin regeneration properties last longer and improve the skin’s appearance, with an enhanced smoothness and radiance.