FEATURE ARTICLES

Elkem has discovered that HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) silicone molecules provide excellent hair conditioning and sensory features typically seen with amino functional silicone with added antioxidant benefit for improved skin health. This ingredient could help formulators create products with multiple benefits that are sure to resonate with health-conscious male consumers

Seqens reveals the details of a clinical study that demonstrates the beneficial properties of a plant extract derived from buckwheat seeds (Polygonum Fagopyrum syn. Polygonum fagopyrum) versus placebo when applied to skin naturally exposed to a polluted environment

The intimate relationship between the human body with its microbiome is more than a symbiotic system. It creates a supraorganism called holobiont. Each damage in the skin generates an imbalance in its microbiome and vice versa. French cosmetic active ingredient developer Sederma explains how an adaptative intervention on the skin microbiota can be achieved through cosmetics

Spanish active ingredient producer Vytrus Biotech extols the benefits of its ingredient made from stem cells of noni, a traditional Polynesian plant. The ingredient is said to have a unique composition: a mixture of terpenes, polyphenols and phytosterols capable of rejuvenating the cutaneous microbiota and the skin at the same time

A defect-free complexion is extremely important in many cultures. Even though skin pigmentation is largely determined by genetics, it is also affected by intrinsic (e.g. glycation) and extrinsic (e.g. pollution) factors that cause hyperpigmentation and the appearance of pigment disorders.

Kallik explains why cosmetics firms can establish truly end-to-end digital operations for managing all global assets in a single, secure cloud-based repository, offering compliance, consistency, and reliability. This also removes the risk of future product updates and developments, which not only cost financially but also cost in terms of time-to-market and competitiveness

Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation has developed the world’s first cosmetic ingredient containing 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH), under the trade name Repista. This article describes the cellular activation effects of the AOH active ingredient on normal human epidermal keratinocytes

The need for year-round skin protection to support our skin against dehydration and external aggressors has inspired BASF to create a biodegradable alternative to polymer film formers that highly resembles human skin and offers all-around care

Vitalab’s scientists have harnessed the power of the medicinal plant Portulaca oleracea to develop a multifunctional ingredient offering improved cellular ability to scavenge free radicals, while reducing the release of pro-inflammatory messengers, helping to relieve sensitive-prone skin and scalp

Italian cosmetic active producer Kalichem explains how bioactive peptides represent an ideal solution to promote plex, restructuring, hydration, combing improvement, volumising, detangling, antistatic, conditioning, and luminosity effects in hair care

Jessica Dynda of US personal ingredient supplier Koster Keunen takes a comprehensive look at the opportunities and challenges of developing solid format products and what it takes to formulate reliable and stable products successfully

École de Biologie Industrielle, Inabata France and FRM GaleSens explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products

Editor Tim Probert discusses the future of skin care with Dr Katerina Steventon, a Czech skin scientist, consultant, practitioner, brand owner and scientific programme director of the recent 8th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference in London

Cosmetic ingredient supplier Azelis takes a wide-ranging look at the various options available for formulators to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers for use in powders, oils and extracts

IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain why upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects

Since the pandemic, consumers have adopted new trends such as do-it-yourself beauty care and demanding high-performance hair care products that can achieve similar result as in a salon. BRB Silicones looks at how its aminosilicones are specially developed in response to meet this demand to provide multi benefits in conditioning, colour protection, hair shininess, hair manageability and hair smoothness

Vietnamese outfit Wakamono is developing Nano Olive Oil, which it says is extracted from natural ingredients, safe and friendly to environment and has the potential to completely replace or reduce the use of silicone and polyquaternium in shampoo while maintaining product effectiveness

Innospec Performance Chemicals has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations

Straticell illustrates in a 3D model that Malassezia furfur invades the upper layers of the reconstructed epidermis with deleterious impacts on the barrier function, inducing an effective immune and inflammatory response, at both gene and protein levels

The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for cosmetic industries. Improving our understanding of host-microbial interactions and how to maintain its delicate balance is essential for the development of new cosmetic formulations. Here, Eurofins proposes an integrated approach to support the analysis of microbiome sequencing data by use of skin biophysical measurements