FEATURE ARTICLES

2. Auffray, C. Bernard, P. Racine and T. Roger – Robertet

Environmental protection is becoming a major preoccupation in most developed societies. A different lifestyle is gradually developing, based on a new understanding and more intelligent use of our natural resources. Sheltering under the umbrella terms of aromatherapy and aromachology, titles between which it is often difficult to differentiate, these sciences are destined for a positive future. The public is growing ever more demanding about efficiency and innocuousness in care products.

Michael Harmsworth – ESPA

Within our industry, it is often difficult to actually quantify what the consumer really thinks and understands about “naturals”. But before discussing their expectation of naturals, there is a need to discuss the consumer’s understanding of what a natural product actually is.

Pierre-Yves Morvan and Romuald Vallee – Codif International, France

The ageing process starts from the age of 20 when our cells produce fewer proteins.

Skin ageing is characterised in three ways:

• By a decrease in the thickness, firmness and elasticity of skin promoting wrinkles.

• By the unsightly effect of skin microcirculation in the form of spider veins on the legs or dark circles on the face around the eyes.

• By a reduction in the antioxidant capacities with, in particular, lower protection against UV.

Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products, Singapore

Milk has been part of women’s beauty regimen since ancient times. Bathing in milk helped them keep their skin beautiful and young-looking. However, skin ages with time and with it comes the obvious effects such as dry skin and the appearance of wrinkles. Traditional methods to combat skin ageing include sound sleep, balanced diet and the application of moisturising and cosmetic products. However, modern approaches involve the regenerative biological stimulation of the tissue underneath the wrinkled skin. Peptides have gained popularity as anti-ageing actives in the personal care market today. This article discusses how a unique natural peptide mixture was developed and how it delivers the anti-ageing efficacy that it promises.

Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle techniques have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. Now, a new solution derived from my own research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. The plant extract spilanthes acmella offers key benefits for the next generation of anti-age applications. In particular, it exhibits powerful activity in stimulating, reorganising and strengthening the collagen network.

Ute Griesbach – Cognis, Germany

Consumer environmentalism is here to stay, but people’s concerns and their effect on purchasing behaviour vary enormously. The environment first became an issue of public concern in Northern Europe in the 1970s, when the realisation dawned that the world’s oil reserves would not last forever. People also started to worry about pollution, as the media covered stories such as smog, hormones in meat, glycol in wine, and the effects of pesticides and fertilisers. This resulted in the start of the organic farming movement, and a return to less intensive methods of rearing livestock. For the first time, people started to take an interest in how their food was produced, although there was little change in the purchasing habits of the average consumer.

Jobiah J Sabelko, Tammy W Gaffney, Akiko 0kawa – Nalco Company

During the last 25 years, hair care products have advanced from singularly functional (cleansing, conditioning, styling or colouring) in the 1980s and multifunctional in the 1990s (two-in-one shampoo and conditioner), to the specifically targeted multifunctional products of today.

Miyuki Fujishiro, Yasunobu Ochiai, Yuji Eda, Yuri Okano, Hitoshi Masaki – Nikkol Group, Tokyo, Japan

Described in this article is how a novel vitamin B6 derivative, Pyridoxine Tris- Hexyldecanoate (VB6-IP), improves skin hydration by stimulating filaggrin expression and increasing NMF synthesis.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The use of perfume is as old as human history. In fact, the word “perfume” derives from the Latin, meaning “through smoke”, because it was customary to burn natural salves, herbs and oils to produce incense for religious rituals. As well as by Romans, the use of perfume has been recorded by almost every ancient civilisation, including the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Arabs.

Anthony C. Dweck FRSC FRSH FLS Technical Editor

It is understandable that a company should want its products to be as attractive and enticing to the consumer as possible, but it would seem that there are some manufacturers who are prepared to take their chances and go over the strict barriers and guidelines that are clearly defined by law. There is also a trend to tell us what a particular formula does not contain and by so doing imply that the product is safer, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Nicholas Marshall – Managing Editor

The latest thinking about the role of water in cosmetic formulations was presented and debated at the IFSCC Conference 2007, held recently in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

The vibrancy and growth currently being experienced in the personal care sector in India will be clearly reflected at the forthcoming in-cosmetics India.

Taking place on 20 and 21 November 2007 at the Bandra Kurla Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, and organised by Reed Exhibitions, in-cosmetics India (formerly PCHi) is shaping up to follow the huge success of 2006. For the 2006 Mumbai show, the Reed Exhibitions team was decidedly in the right place at the right time to help exhibitors and visitors alike make the most of rapid growth in the personal care industry.

Alain Khaiat – Seers Consulting, USA Shoshana (Malis) Arad – Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, Israel Ram Snir – Frutarom, Israel

Survival of red microalga cells in the extreme conditions of the ocean tidal zone while subjected to a wide range of harsh conditions, such as overexposure to and constant changes in UV, pH, temperature, hydration and salinity, is attributed to the protective polysaccharide (PS) synthesised in the cells and creating an active shield around them.

In a number of studies the PS has demonstrated a wide range of biological activities, including anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-oxidant, UV absorbance and bio-lubricant properties, explaining in part its protective effect on the algae cells, as well as protection of the human skin. Over 20 years of research have resulted in an innovative patented growth process.

3. Lenaers, G. Bon, J. Dorothyn, C. Quenel, B. Closs – Silab, France.

Three targets for a high anti-cellulite action – fat storage, inflammation, and adipose tissue degradation – are among specifics focused on in this article. Cellulite frequently affects women, and is indicated on particular areas of the body such as the buttocks and thighs by a padded appearance of the skin, more familiarly known as orange peel effect.

Julian P. Hewitt, Lorna M. Kessell, Benjamin J. Naden – Croda Chemicals Europe, UK

Inorganic sunscreens such as titanium dioxide are now used very widely throughout the world, especially in Asia.

These materials provide very effective and broad spectrum protection, but suffer from drawbacks in terms of visual and tactile sensory properties: they often give a white film on skin and a less-than-ideal skin feel. Asian consumers, in particular, expect skin care and sun care products to have a high degree of cosmetic elegance.

Products should ideally not leave a film on skin which is perceivable either visually or sensorially.

The objective of the work described in this article was to develop formulations incorporating titanium dioxide, which overcome the sensory drawbacks while maintaining a high degree of efficacy.

16. Benech, C. Mas Chamberlin, P. Mondon, K. Lintner – Sederma, France

Today, the action of cosmetic products is increasingly sophisticated and the biological activity of cosmetic ingredients needs to be comprehensively understood. This article examines a way of establishing an appropriate level of knowledge.

Every day, new cosmetic “active” ingredients are introduced to a worldwide market that is hungry for novelty, originality, and efficacy. Synthetic, extracted or biotechnology derived molecules vie for attention, and producers claim multiple skin benefits and base their arguments on various classical or novel test protocols.

Crystal Arlea and Rosita Nunez – Lonza Inc., USA

For many years, formulators have been searching for effective paraben replacements primarily in skin care products destined for the global marketplace.1 While being a highly effective fungicide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) was previously not an option for the global marketplace due to restrictions in the Japanese personal care market.

However, in May 2006, IPBC received official approval by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) for use in cosmetic and personal care products under Pharmaceutical and Food Safety Bureau Notification No. 0524001.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The global biocides industry underwent a profound change on the implementation of the European Union’s Biocidal Products Directive 98/8/EC (BPD).

It was modelled after the Plant Protection Products Directive 91/414/CEE but concerns only the non-agricultural pesticides. The first proposal was introduced in 1993, officially adopted by the European Council and the European Parliament on 16 February, 1998 and entered into force on 14 May, 2000. This Directive aims to provide a harmonised single regulatory framework for placing biocidal products on the EU market. Another objective is to ensure a high level of human and environmental protection while safeguarding the EU market competitiveness.

16. Krisdaphong, V. Vatcharapreechasakul, W. Suphachinda – Mae Fah Luang University, Thailand

Cellulite occurs in the deeper layers of the skin and it becomes more visible as the condition worsens.

Over time, fat deposits accumulate in compartments causing the skin to expand and bulge and this shows up on the skin’s surface as dimpled skin. The logical approach is to tackle the problem from within, directly treating the trapped fat and blood circulation, and backing this up with the topical application of lotion and cream.

John Hibbs, Terri Germain, Jonette Payne – McIntyre Group

This article presents the pigment wetting efficacy of a series of novel branchedchain esters using a model system.

This empirical study with mica demonstrates that branched-chain esters are effective pigment wetters. Specifically, Butyloctyl palmitate was found to have exceptional wetting properties with a viscosity difference of only 362 cps between the ester and the 35% pigment suspension. In addition, butyloctyl cetearate, butyloctyl behenate, decyltetradecyl cetearate and tetradecyloctadecyl hexyldecanoate all show excellent pigment wetting properties with an observed difference of less than 2,000 cps between the neat ester and the corresponding suspension in the ester.