FEATURE ARTICLES

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The in-cosmetics event recently held in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, had the most international visitor line-up of any of the shows in the series. Well-presented stands had much to interest the visitors, of whom 9% were from the Asia Pacific region. The show seemed very busy and indeed it was sometimes difficult to get onto stands and make the necessary contacts.

Anna Montero, Montserrat Mangues, Silvia Reyes, Elena Cañadas – Lipotec, Spain

Skin ageing can be divided into two basic processes, intrinsic ageing and photoageing. Intrinsic ageing is characterised by smooth, dry, pale and finely wrinkled skin while photoageing is a consequence of UV exposure and is associated with skin thickening, severe wrinkling and pigmentary changes.

Cheryl Gilbert – Balanced Essentials, Australia Pauline Rose RN – Complementary & Ecological Medicine, Australia Ric Williams B.Sc. Dip.Env.St. – NxGen Pharmaceuticals, Australia

Pain management, also called pain medicine, is the discipline concerned with the relief of pain. Examined first are current “pharmaceutical” products/systems for pain management.

Dr R.J.W. Hefford – Consultant, Independent Cosmetic Advice Ltd

This is the first in a series of articles which is intended to give an introduction into the science and technology of products designed to colour the hair. This series will cover:

· The history of hair colouring.

· The structure of the hair as well as how it is damaged.

· How hair colour is described.

· The technology of current products which will include direct dyeing as well as oxidative systems and bleaching.

· How to formulate hair colouring products.

· How hair colouring products are positioned in the market.

· The safety and regulation of hair dyes.

· The future of hair colouring technology.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group, UK

REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.

REACH has global implications, as emphasised in Personal Care, January 2008, and meeting its requirements is far from straightforward.

As the technical manager of Cornelius, I am tasked with ensuring the company is fully compliant with the legislation. This has been, and will continue to be, an extremely onerous task due to the complex nature of the legislation and the, sometimes, ambiguous nature of the company’s position in the supply chain. Outlined in this article is how I have been tackling REACH issues.

Two major features of in-cosmetics Asia being held in Bangkok, Thailand (4-6 November 2008) will be a series of Marketing Trends presentations and a schedule of Innovations Seminars. The Marketing Trends presentations will reveal what is increasingly important from a variety of marketing perspectives, and what the “hot” topics will be in the year ahead.

Maria-Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products, Singapore

UV light does not only cause damage to the skin but also to cosmetic products.

Exposure to UV light can induce decomposition reactions which can affect the appearance and performance of the product. With respect to colour, fading and discoloration are the immediate visible effects of these reactions.

Jennifer Bishop – Lake Life Sciences, UK

Since the beginning of time, people and animals have used natural sediments for both medicinal and aesthetic purposes. Animals are instinctively drawn to clay: they roll about in mud pools completely covering their bodies in order to treat sores and protect themselves from infection and they even eat it to stock up on minerals.

Marc Heidl Ph.D. – Pentapharm, Switzerland

A new tripeptide has been shown to significantly reduce wrinkle depth on the forehead and also in the facial skin area in which crow’s feet can be present.

This article extends information previously provided (Personal Care, July 2006).

India’s dynamic cosmetics and personal care market is valued at £2.5 billion1 and is growing annually by 20%.2

It is the world’s third fastest-developing market for personal care raw materials,2 proving fertile ground for the international and Indian companies lining up to exhibit at in-cosmetics India in Mumbai this year.

Frederic Serres – Seppic, Singapore

Is hair simply an ordinary part of our body? Studied by scientists and styled by hairdressers, hair has always been the focus of close attention.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The planet cannot withstand the plunder of its treasures without some investment by man for the future.

It is an inescapable fact that oil will most certainly run out, and we will need to look to other sources for this precious feedstock that provides not only fuel for energy and transport, but also, and maybe even more importantly, the starting blocks for chemical biosynthesis.

Christina He, Isabelle Van Reeth – Dow Corning (Shanghai)

In today’s skin care market trend, we clearly see that the emotional benefit (i.e. what the consumer feels from the products) is becoming increasingly important in addition to the functional performance.

With its 28% share of global sales,1 Asia now ranks as the world’s second largest personal care market after Europe and ahead of North America.

While flourishing, Asia is clamouring for further knowledge and innovation and significantly helping to priovide this is in-cosmetics Asia, the science, business and networking platform for the personal care ingredients industry in the region. Following on from Seoul in 2006 and Guangzhou in 2007, in-cosmetics Asia (formerly called PCIA) is returning to Thailand in November after a three-year absence.

Wen Schroeder — SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

According to a market research report published in February 2005 by BCC Research, baby boomers’ unprecedented purchasing power, coupled with the youthdominated cultural shift and modern technological advancement have fuelled a rapidly growing US anti-ageing industry that exceeded $45.5 billion in 2004 ($7.7 billion of which was spent on appearance products alone).

Pamela Jones – Special Correspondent

The Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists recently held its annual conference at the Marriott Resort on the Gold Coast, Queensland, and the theme of the event was “Cosmetic Science – Creating the Vision”.

Dr Sergio Amari, Alain Thibodeau Ph.D. – B&T, Italy

The skin is externally located and thus serves as a sheath separating internal organs from direct contact with the environment.

Despite this perception as an inert envelop, the skin is a very complex and metabolically active tissue endowed with both intracrine and paracrine capabilities. The main roles of the skin are: protection from UV radiation (melanogenesis), immune defence and a barrier function preventing the penetration of foreign particles.

Pamela Jones – Special Correspondent

Heralded as the “New World Economy”, many sectors of the Asian market are booming, largely driven by the stellar performance of two prodigious markets, China and India.

Emilie Desmarthon, Manuel De Arriba – LCW-Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, France

New generations of anti-ageing products have been formulated according to optical rules, giving the consumer an immediate, visual improvement.

Pierfrancesco Morganti — II Università di Napoli / Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

7. Morganti — Mavi Sud–Aprilia, Italy

The cosmetic market, even though considered mature in many areas, is still increasing in size globally and reached a value of US $200 billion in 2007 (Fig. 1).