Formulators of cosmetics products are reconsidering the role of sensory analysis in the product development process. Texture and sensory properties are some of the key aspects influencing consumers’ choice of personal care products. It is the way the product looks, feels, smells, performs, effects the mood, creates a special ‘me time’ experience.
Sensory evaluation studies are performed in order to obtain full sensory profile of the cosmetic product. Research on sensory evaluation needs to be linked to research on product aesthetics, product meaning, and product emotions. Cosmetic ingredients are developed for their technical functions- but also for specific sensory targets.
Aspects of a successful cosmetic product include efficiency, safety and sensory characteristics- which improve consumer acceptability and has a definite uplift impact on sales. Brenntag Cosmetics specifically looked at sensory evaluation techniques- in particular powders in skin formulations during one of our recent projects in partnership with Ecole de Biology Industrielle (EBI), France. The research developed a sensory protocol of evaluation for pure powders and for emulsions containing these ingredients, using an expert panel (more information is available in the research study, see Ref 1).
A number of formulations were used for sensory evaluation: for instance, an emulsion prototype was formulated to evaluate the sensory impact of MIRASIL Micropearl 40 (Bluestar Silicones), which is a polymethylsilsesquioxane powder in a spherical shape that promotes the light diffusion, develops a ball bearing and soft-focus effects and known to improve softness on skin and reduces tackiness of sunscreen agents.
The sensory analysis lexicon established during the research is now extensively used to characterise the portfolio of powders and provide a better technical service to customers. Francois Bouton , Brenntag Cosmetics EMEA, said: "The research, along with various briefs our Brenntag teams receive, gave us an idea for our latest concept, "The Feel of Luxury", which we presented at the latest SCS Formulate in the UK. We focused on further exploring inspiring textures and sensorial attributes that innovative ingredients can bring to cosmetics products. Having presented at the SCS Formulate to the delegates I am excited at the level of knowledge and engagement of the industry colleagues, and am looking forward to in-cosmetics 2017 in London."
For more information on "The Feel of Luxury" concept please contact Brenntag UK & Ireland team on enquiries@brenntag.co.uk, or visit www.brenntag.co.uk
References
1. M. Moussour, M. Lavarde, A.-M. Pense-Lheritier, F. Bouton (2016) Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders: personal care ingredients and emulsions, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 1–7 doi: 10.1111/ics.12352
2. Lukic, M., Jaksic, I., Krstonosic, V., Cekic, N., and Savic, S. (2012) A combined approach in characterisation of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012 Apr; 34(2) pp. 140–149
3. Kemp et al (2009) Sensory Evaluation: A practical handbook, Wiley Blackwell
