FEATURE ARTICLES

There are many occasions when formulators want to be sure that products they are making contain a discernible level of active material. There are many extracts that are standardised against a particular active component, but at the level used in the formula may be insufficient to satisfy its functional purpose.

Cosmetic formulations consist of complex ingredient mixtures. The nature of these ingredients does not always allow for simple mixing. Oil and water as two phases of an emulsion can be mixed but cannot be kept stable as a mixture without the help of an emulsifier and the right mixing equipment.

In the neurocosmetic field, two complementary ways the targeting modulation of the cutaneous nervous system can be used to promote skin comfort and wellbeing: reduction of unpleasant skin sensations by an endorphin-like approach and skin wellbeing induction by dopamine stimulation.

Compounds that have two or more groups that are insoluble in each other are referred to as amphiphilic materials. It is the presence of these groups that makes a molecule surface active.

With the influence of fashion and media, consumers are searching for the miracle solution to have the perfectly sculpted body figure. Seppic’s recentlydeveloped “SOS Silhouette” programme addresses that demand with curative and preventative slimming ingredients targeting the adipocytes (fat cell storage).

Preservatives are chemical compounds added to products to prevent the growth of microorganisms. They are intended to be added to clean products to prevent contamination by consumers while in use.

In this instalment, Kunio Shimada discusses the academic levels of Japanese cosmetics researchers and their major study topics.

Stem cell therapies are currently being trialled for a range of conditions including spinal cord injuries, Crohn’s disease, osteoarthritis, diabetes, acute myocardial infarction and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease.

Following the introduction of the national colorectal cancer screening programme, a study has been undertaken by the University Hospital of Coventry and Warwickshire to assess public awareness and perceptions of the initiative.

This is the final section of the article on essential oils. The new consolidated regulation of the european parliament and of the council on cosmetic products (recast) 2008/0035 (COD) 10 November 2009 places a huge burden on formulators and toxicologists to ensure the safety of cosmetic products placed on the market which goes far beyond the old safety assessments.

Marketing personal care products in the United States often involves interaction with the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA regulates a wide array of consumer goods including food, beverages, health supplements, drugs, biologics, medical devices, veterinary drugs, cosmetics, radiation emitting products, and more recently, tobacco.

Preservatives ensure product safety and quality and therefore play an important role in every personal care formulation. This article addresses the challenge of choosing the right preservative system and gives some guidance for decision makers.

Seppic has made significant strides forward in the fight against ageing through development of two active ingredients named TimeCode and SurviCode. For the first time, the ageing genetic print has been defined and the “youth capital” code of the cells decoded.

The plague of a generation, stress is everywhere in our hectic lives. We have all used the term “stress” to define what we feel (acceleration of the heartbeat, increased perspiration, etc.) in unsettling or unexpected situations.

Shea butter has recently become a very popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care applications due to its good emolliency and moisturising properties. The high content of unsaponifiable lipids, especially triterpene cinnamates, contributes to skin healing and restoration by anti-inflammatory action.

In a country where an estimated 30% of the population exist below the poverty line, it is indeed surprising to note that the Philippine cosmetics industry registers an average 7.7% growth rate a year, and hit sales of over US$2 billion in 2008.

Suppliers of technical products and services often assume their customers have the knowledge and skills to take their sample and product data sheet and turn them into a finished cosmetic product. It seems this is not the case.

The skin provides the first and most efficient defence of the body against water loss and external aggressions.

Over time, cells show a decrease in their replicative and metabolic capacity, resulting in a reduction in their number of duplications achieving a state of proliferation arrest. This phenomenon of loss of replicative capacity is known as cellular senescence.

New legal regulations and growing competition in the market of cosmetic products demand more and more tests in the field of bioengineering. R&D departments are looking out for bioengineering methods which are non-invasive, objective, sensitive and reproducible.