A review of ideas from 2009 – a personal view

There have been a number of raw material introductions that have come to my attention during the last half of 2009. These may not be new launches but they are materials that had missed our radar!

Anti-ageing

•  Provital Noline [INCI: Macelignan] Purified active from seeds of Myristica fragrans Houtt. It contains min. 85.0% macelignan. Enlarges the volume of the subcutaneous adipose tissue, filling wrinkles and expression lines of mature skin. Increases the creation of new adipose cells (adipogenesis) and the size of lipid vacuoles in the adipose tissue.

• Sederma Subliskin [INCI: Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Lecithin] Subliskin acts on keratinocytes by stimulating hyaluronic acid and laminin-5 synthesis, and induces chain reactions down to dermal fibroblasts (elastin synthesis). It contains glycokines: oligosaccharides acting as specific messengers and inducing biological responses according to their distinct structure, which can be accurately obtained only by biotechnology. It is obtained by biofermentation of sinorhizobium meliloti under conditions that mimic the natural symbiosis. The bacterium produces an exopolysaccharide, precursor of glycokines, in response to the plant’s needs. Significant decrease in wrinkle quantity by 46% after just one month.

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