Cutting edge products take centre stage

The Innovation Zone, a key feature that will form part of the show, will also be showcasing more than 60 new launches and a series of demonstrations. Antiageing, skincare, natural and organics are just some of the trends that will be dominating the headlines at this year’s event, which takes place in Paris at the Porte de Versailles from 13-15 April. An example of this comes from Eco-Oil Argentina, a key producer and manufacturer of jojoba oil. The company will be using in-cosmetics as a platform to introduce its brand new multi-purpose product Ecobeads. Ecobeads are made out of natural jojoba oil and act not only as an exfoliant, but also as an emollient, leaving the skin softer, smoother and younger looking. The gentle botanical beads are a suitable alternative to polyethylene beads or nutshell exfoliants, which can often scratch or irritate the skin. The beads, which provide superior oxidative stability and excellent emolliency are ideal for a range of shower gels, soaps, body polishers or scrubs. Representatives from Eco Oil Argentina will also be on hand to discuss the company’s manufacturing processes, from the farming technology used to the careful seed selection process, which ensures all products are of the highest quality while being absolutely natural and complying with all legal requirements. Another exhibitor promoting the benefits of jojoba is Desert Whale, who has spent over 30 years growing and manufacturing innovative and sustainable raw materials. The company will be showcasing Jojoba Illuminate, a new all natural primary emulsifier that is ideal for skin hydration. Jojoba Illuminate is a combination of jojoba soap and jojoba alcohol and is presented in a paste-like form. ECOCERT certified, the product is targeted at both the leave-on and rinse-off categories. Another new development being highlighted at the show comes from Indena. The company is launching a new application of Zanthalene as a novel “instant lifting” agent. Zanthalene, which is a lipophilic extract from Zanthoxylum bungeanum Maxim, is an archetypal inducer of tingling or a type of ‘electrical’ sensation that is caused by the presence of unique alkamides. Indena has tested Zanthalene formulations as anti-wrinkle agents and when applied directly to the skin have found them to be successful at reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. Following on the anti-ageing theme, first time exhibitor INOVAG will be showcasing a new anti-wrinkle product with exceptional properties to help fight the ageing process. Prickly Pear Oil, which is derived from naturally grown cacti fruit in the Moroccan desert, contains more than 70% of linoleic acid and is high in vitamin E and sterol, making it ideal for skin nourishment and repair. The oil is ECOCERT certified and is extracted by separating, drying and cold pressing fruit seeds. Fenchem Biotek is launching an organic rosemary extract aimed at natural personal care formulations that has excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. EssenRose is derived from the leaves of organic Rosmarinus officinalis and is processed according to the National Organic Program and EU standards. At in-cosmetics 2010 Fenchem will be highlighting two of its rosemary extracts. EssenRose-OS, which is an oil-soluble extract rich in carnosic acid, and EssenRose-WS, which is a water-soluble extract rich in rosmarinic acid. EssenRose-OS can be used to protect cosmetic oils from oxidation and rancidity so is ideal for extending shelf life. The extract is suitable for body lotions, sunscreens and massage oils. Alternatively, EssenRose-WS is highly recommended for products designed for sensitive skin and can be used in a whole host of products including shampoos and perfumes. Moreover, the two lines are also allergenfree, GMO-free and non-irradiation and are ideal natural alternatives to synthetic compounds such as BHA and BHT. New to in-cosmetics this year is Mosselman. Specialists in oleochemicals, Mosselman will be launching a new fully biobased antimicrobial emulsifier, Glycerol Mono Laurate 90%. While less concentrated versions of glyceryl monolaurate have existed on the market now for several years, GML 90% opens up new application opportunities for the molecule. In addition to providing a better emulsifying power, GML 90% provides antibacterial properties and promotes transdermal penetration of certain actives. The new ingredient can be used in a whole host of cosmetic products including antibacterial gels and toothpastes. Two recent studies, both of which will be highlighted at the show by DuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts, indicate that 100% natural Zemea Propanediol provides key benefits to shampoo and leave-on formulations. A hair tress study conducted in the US concluded that Zemea shampoo conditioned hair better and allowed for easier detangling. Both hair tress and consumer studies in Japan, also indicated an increase in moisturisation with Zemea shampoo formulations. Approved by ECOCERT, Zemea causes no skin irritation, provides high humectancy and is an ideal petroleum-free glycol alternative. Launching a new addition to its signature range, Aquea Scientific Corporation, will be at the show with Aquea SPFx. The paraben-free wash on sunscreen is Aquea’s newest encapsulation for fragrances and active ingredients. The first fully-functional shower-onsunscreen ingredient can be added to soaps and shampoos to deliver all the benefits of conventional sunscreen while still maintaining the advantages associated with cleansing products. RAHN will be introducing its new active ingredient, ILLUMISCIN, which is designed to eliminate age spots and illuminate the skin. A balanced composition of oleuropein, vitamin C and Zinc-PCA effectively fights against melanin and lipofuscin, two pigments responsible for the appearance of age spots. ILLUMISCIN is water-soluble and can easily be incorporated into cosmetic formulations such as gels and emulsions. Increasing its offer with a new special emulsifier, Sinerga will be launching a unique and technologically advanced O/W ingredient to complement its current range of fine raw materials. Sinerga, who specialises in ingredients of natural origin, will be presenting products such as Hitecream 3000, a vegetable based emulsifier composed of a well-balanced blend of natural origin lipids and lipoproteins and natisol, an eco-solubiliser for essential oils and fragrances. Dr. Straetmans will be at in-cosmetics presenting its range of innovative natural ingredients including Dermosoft PEA eco (INCI Phenethyl Alcohol), the first natural, water soluble and efficient antimicrobial ingredient that can be added to products for perfuming, as a deodorant active or for preservation. Also featuring will be Symbio solv XC, a natural solubiliser that bridges the gap between natural sourcing and high performance. The ingredient yields transparent solutions with most perfumes and essential oils. It is PEG-free and suitable for certified natural cosmetics. Innospec will be launching a number of new products at in-cosmetics 2010 and showcasing its existing portfolio of innovative surfactants, emollients, solubilisers and dispersants. New additions to the Iselux range of mild, transparent, sulfate-free surfactants will be on show. These offer formulators greater freedom to create novel and exciting end products including shampoos, body and facial washes and bath foam. Innospec will also be unveiling a brand new corporate identity which reflects its unique partnership approach to blending science with creativity to develop pioneering specialty chemicals. Other companies exhibiting at the show in Paris include Neelikon Food Dyes & Chemicals, with its new range of pigments, lakes and iron oxides for colour cosmetics, Evonik Goldschmidt, with the launch of a new green emulsifier and Geotech International, who is highlighting a new pigment.

in-cosmetics new product round-up

Skin care