FEATURE ARTICLES

Nowadays, uneven skin pigmentation and spots are considered a major sign of skin ageing, affecting lots of people all over the world. Hyperpigmentation is mainly due to the presence of melanin, which is synthesised by the tyrosinase enzyme.

Mulberry root extract is a type of extract obtained from the bark of mulberry roots. It contains flavonoids and is used as a Chinese herbal medicine with diuretic, antitussive and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also used in a wide variety of whitening cosmetic products since it is a very powerful tyrosinase activation inhibitor.

Dry skin is a common problem that influences the ability to cope with the constant external environmental aggressions of the modern world. Hydrated skin is supple, flexible, soft, and smooth, and appears young and healthy.1,2 Water is essential for the normal functioning of the skin, especially for the stratum corneum (SC), which is a selectively permeable, heterogeneous, composite outer layer of the skin.3

The first lipstick saw the light of day in 1883. At the World Exhibition in Amsterdam, a Parisian perfumer presented a mixture of deer tallow, beeswax and coloured castor oil; wrapped in tissue paper it was therefore jokingly called ‘saucisse’ (sausages).

Dermatological tests in accordance with scientific criteria are of decisive value for the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. Latest alterations in the European legislation emphasise this fact. Whether a cosmetic product is well tolerated or causes irritations or allergic reactions must be proven by dermatological tests.

Oils are an essential component to provide natural lustre, lubricity and an emollient feeling to hair care products. Therefore different natural oils are commonly used in rinse-off and leave-in products for hair conditioning benefits.

Ageing affects all levels of the skin. From the stratum corneum downwards ageing creates corneocyte dysfunction, epidermal atrophy, dysplasia and abnormal pigmentation (Fig. 1).

Sustainability is an inconsistently defined term, and not solely in the personal care industry. For the purposes of this article, we will accept a commonly accepted definition as laid out in The Future of Sustainability:1 “The core of mainstream sustainability thinking has become the idea of three dimensions, environmental, social and economic sustainability.”

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (shea butter) is widely used in personal care and cosmetics1–5 as a moisturiser and emollient. While shea butter has grown in importance within the industry, there is little in the way of clinical studies showing its efficacy in skin care.

The rapid growth of green biotechnologies in personal care is made evident by the increased number of products based on plant stem cells.

Making Cosmetics is an exhibition with services, workshops and demonstrations featuring the latest information, answers, ideas about sourcing, for manufacturing and outsourcing personal care products from start to finish and taking them from concept to consumer.

Dr Andrea Mitarotonda holds a PhD in Industrial & Applied Chemistry, specialising in colloid and polymer chemistry, and a Diploma in Innovation Project Management. He currently heads the R&D department at Neal’s Yard Remedies, based in their eco-factory in Dorset, UK.

The global personal care industry remains competitive despite the continued gloomy economic outlook. In 2011, for example, exports from the European market alone were worth e14.2 billion, with France topping the list and Germany, Italy and the UK not far behind (Source: The European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Market 2011, Cosmetics Europe).

The 2012 SCS Formulate took place at the Ricoh Arena in Coventry, UK, on 13 and 14 November and once again continued its steady increase in size it has shown since 2004 with a total of 913 visitors.

Cosmetic products are usually mixtures containing, for example, polymers, waxes, oils, minerals, colorants, preservatives, biocides, surfactants and solvents.

Sun protection preparations (sunscreens) are classified differently internationally. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) determination methods as well as the UV filter substances are not harmonised so far.

Tea is one of the most consumed beverages in the world and it has been popular for over 4000 years. Its popularity is attributed to the sensory properties and potential health and anti-ageing benefits.

Having clear and bright skin is considered an important feature for female beauty in Asian cultures. In these markets there is a large and growing demand for skin whitening and lightening products.

The 2013 Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) event will be held on 13-15 March at the Guangzhou Poly World Trade Center and is set to be the best and most well-attended edition of the international trade event thus far, with strong conference partnerships and a bigger exhibition area.

Following on from the two-part article last year, Ric Williams looks at the subject of anti-ageing, starting with the transport of active ingredients through the skin.

In terms of transport of active ingredients across the skin membrane, the rate of dermal absorption of a substance is proportional to both the concentration of the substance and the surface area over which it is applied.