FEATURE ARTICLES

Preservatives are essential components for any personal care formulation that contains water. However, the palette of useable preservatives has steadily declined in recent years necessitating the use of new systems to accommodate consumer preferences.

As always there are plenty of European regulatory activities relating to cosmetic ingredients that are impacting the industry and should be monitored closely.

The 23rd IFSCC Conference was held in Zurich, Switzerland from the 21-23 September and took as its inspiration the phrase: More Facts, Less Illusions.

Skin protection was once mainly about sun protection, with just a few brands formulating products to protect skin from damage by air pollution or harsh environments.

Skin ageing is a multifactorial process consisting of two distinct and independent mechanisms: intrinsic and extrinsic ageing.

Ascorbic acid (AsA) (vitamin C) has various skin-physiological effects including an anti-oxidative effect, but as its weak point it is unstable in aqueous solution.

Mastic is the resin harvested from the Pistacia lentiscus trees from the Greek island of Chios. It has been used as a precious natural remedy against various ailments since ancient times.

Emulsions are defined as fine dispersions of very small droplets of one liquid in another in which it is not soluble or miscible.1

Antiperspirant (AP) actives are classified as over the counter (OTC) drugs and are under FDA regulations.

Proprietary processes are used in the commercial extraction of keratin from virgin New Zealand sheep wool to produce three types of keratin protein fractions.

Prior to the 1950s, the few commercial hair care products available for women included harsh shampoos and soaps, hair lacquers and Brilliantine, and for men, greasy creams and tonics.

In recent years, hair care ingredients have developed a great deal and we are now seeing a skin care and anti-ageing approach to hair care.

Let me start by saying that I am not a cosmetic chemist. My doctorate is in natural medicine and I have been formulating natural products for more than two generations. And because they work as advertised, more than 50% are still selling in the market.

Triethyl citrate from Jungbunzlauer, the well-known brand Citrofol® AI, has a long history of applications in the personal care industry. Jungbunzlauer manufactures this product from nature derived agro resources.

The global natural and organic market has grown steadily over the last decade, doubling in value, to achieve sales revenue close to US$12 billion.

Emulsions are very important in preparation of a number of personal care formulations. Most emulsions contain a water phase and a water insoluble phase. Emulsions containing only these elements are difficult to make with the desired stability, functionality and aesthetics.

The dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) is a complex structure (Fig. 1) primarily responsible for epidermis to dermis attachment. The DEJ thus warrants cohesion and mechanical resistance of the skin.

Personal care products specifically for babies have been around for over a century. Possibly the first supplier was Johnson & Johnson who released Baby powder in 1893 followed by Baby Cream in 1921, Baby Oil in 1938, Baby Lotion in 1942 and the benchmark for gentle shampoo, Johnson’s Baby Shampoo in 1953.

Mild formulations are no longer the preserve of baby products. The desire for mild products has become a major feature of the personal care industry as an increasing number of people claim to have sensitive skin and are conscious of sensitising ingredients.

Homogeneity of the skin is known to influence perception of attractiveness and youthfulness. The aesthetic ideals in most cultures involve an even skin tone, while in Asia these also implicate a lighter complexion.