PEG-free options for emulsifier systems

PEGs are the most frequently used emulsifiers in personal care products and decorative cosmetics. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) esters are manufactured by reacting a polyethylene glycol with a fatty acid. Depending on the manufacturing processes, PEGs may be contaminated with some amounts of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane.1 The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies ethylene oxide as a known human carcinogen and 1,4-dioxane as a possible human carcinogen. Ethylene oxide can also harm the nervous system as it is not easily degraded and can remain in the environment long after it is rinsed down a shower drain. While carcinogenic contaminants are the primary concerns, PEG compounds themselves show some evidence of genotoxicity2 and if used on damaged skin can cause irritation and systemic toxicity. For these reasons PEGs are now substituted by emulsifiers based on more ‘eco friendly’ sources. 

Raw material suppliers have announced the development of many new innovative ethylene oxide-free compounds. Considering the product benefits that we want to include in our formulations there is a lot of different types of emulsifying system solutions available on the market. The growing interest in limiting the use of polyethylene oxide components encourage raw material producers to develop ingredients with EO, BDIH or Natrue certification in response to constantly changing customer demand. 

This article presents the most commonly used ones with a broad variety of chemical structures and properties. I choose only a couple of examples which are recommended for personal care products but also for decorative cosmetics. Below are some of them.