Personal Care’s skin whitening product trail

The new Product Trail concept featuring at in-cosmetics Asia 2013 gave visitors the ability to match ingredients to major trends and take them straight to the right stand.

The Product Trail was a great success and Personal Care was honoured to help by creating the Skin Whitening Trail. The skin whitening market has changed remarkably in recent years, with a greater emphasis on safety and natural ingredients, while the market has also expanded from the traditional facial creams to all-over body care products. The lightening effect of many new ingredients can also be incorporated into anti-ageing products. As we age, our skin tone darkens (particularly around the eyes) and becomes more uneven; therefore the addition of a lightening active helps to brighten and even out the tones of the skin, creating a more youthful look. When compiling the list for the product trail we looked for products that combine efficacy while also fitting in with major trends. Following is an overview of our choices for the Skin Whitening Product Trail.

The trail

Mibelle had two ingredients on the trail. Marketing manager, Beata Hurst, spoke to Personal Care at the show and said the company was delighted with the amount of interest the Skin Whitening Product Trail had sparked. Mibelle’s NanoWhite is a liposomal preparation combining powerful whitening ingredients with antioxidants for a strong brightening effect. With age, stress and pollution, the skin pigmentation process can be disturbed leading to age spots and an uneven complexion. Thanks to its special composition, NanoWhite regulates this process through complementary pathways: arbutin, which naturally occurs in bearberry leaves, and strongly inhibits tyrosinase activity which is the key enzyme of the pigmentation process. Its safe proven activity is reinforced by reduced glutathione and vitamin C palmitate which have both whitening and antioxidant properties. The effectiveness of all these components is optimised by the liposomal form. Delentigo targets and lightens age spots by combining two active substances incorporated into separate liposomes: An extract of Swiss garden cress sprouts which is rich in sulforaphane, a powerful antioxidant phytonutrient. Genistein, the biologically active form of the most abundant soy isoflavone. Age spots appear on UV-exposed areas of the body mainly after the age of 50. They are characterised by an increased production of two pigments: melanin and lipofuscin. Delentigo prevents and regulates the formation of both pigments. It also inhibits the accumulation of lipofuscin in the skin by activating the proteasome, the cell’s own cleaning system which degrades oxidised proteins. ID Bio’s MelanOWhite is an organic active ingredient that lightens the skin and makes the complexion more uniform: –93,2% of melanin synthesis increase (in vitro) and –13% of melanin synthesis against placebo (ex vivo). Also, a study carried out on Asian volunteers showed a reduction of pigmentary spots and an improvement of skin luminance after 28 and 56 days of only one single application. The ingredient’s INCI name is: Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract. Induchem’s Unilucent PA-13 is a 2-in-1 age spot killer and skin lightener offering age spot reduction and visible lightening of skin within 15 days. Unilucent PA-13 acts at two levels to give faster and more sustainable results on skin pigmentation. It blocks the global process of melanin synthesis, and stops the transfer of existing melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes. More efficient than kojic acid for a brighter and more radiant skin. Lipoid’s Citrolumine 8TM has been developed to brighten skin tone, fade age spots and increase overall skin luminosity. In addition to the skin brightening properties tested, citroflavonoids have been shown in the literature also to be potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agents, properties which are also of great interest in a skin care active. Sensient Sensibright Dual White WD is a three-in-one whitening surface treated combination of rutile titanium dioxide and synthetic mica. Sensibright Dual White WD is a three-in-one powder for instant whitening effect with a natural complexion, instant illuminating effect – a radianceboosting complexion perfector that smoothes the skin for a luminous glow – and also long-term whitening effect with a surface treatment based on efficient whitening actives. It prevents or inhibits skin pigmentation. It is an ideal solution for easily formulating whitening compact powders with an exceptional smoothness and immediate whitening keeping a natural radiance. It can also be used in whitening creams and gels. IBR Clearly Bright is a combination of the patented actives – IBR-TCLC, IBR-Dormin & IBR-Snowflake. IBR Clearly Bright Complex effectively and significantly lightens the skin tone. IBR Clearly Bright Complex protects the skin and keeps skin younger and younger looking. The mechanism of action includes the hindering of multiple triggers of pigmentation combined with direct melanin synthesis and melanocyte proliferation inhibition; not related to tyrosinase inhibitors. Activities have been demonstrated in vitro to show that the components are able to reduce pigmentation through various effects as: direct inhibition of melanin synthesis, direct inhibition of melanocytes proliferation, antiinflammatory activity, multiple antioxidant activity, and boost of SOD – the natural antioxidant. Prodhywhite Concentre from Prod’Hyg is a hydroglycolic complex of several plants (mulberry, liquorice, burnet and bearberry) and active ingredients. Thanks to its original composition, Prodhywhite Concentre is an agent with remarkable effectiveness as skin whitener. Prod’Hyg was also at in-cosmetics with Sohakuhi BG, which is an extract from the cortex of the white mulberry root. It is obtained through a specialised extraction process on a glycolic base. A series of strict controls guarantees the quality of the product. Its exceptional composition of phenyl flavones makes Sohakuhi BG an agent capable of both hydration and lightening.

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