FEATURE ARTICLES

Yoshihito Kawashima, Akinori Kiso, Naoko Kishida, Yoko Ito, Nobuaki Ohto and Toshimitsu Kambara – Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co Ltd, Japan

Conspicuous pores, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion, sagging of the skin and parakeratosis, constitute one of the major skin problems faced by women.1,2 The size of facial pores, which is indicated by total area etc, is increased with age.3 Facial pore deformation is also induced by decreased elasticity with ageing. Young women are aware of conspicuous pores on the nose, which can be caused by excess of sebum secretion. On the other hand, middle-aged women are aware of conspicuous pores on the cheek, which can be caused by decreased skin elasticity.3

Sophie Viala, Sebastian Dörr, Steffen Hofacker – Bayer MaterialScience AG, Germany

Polymeric film formers are widely used in cosmetics for various purposes. Film formers are the main active ingredients commonly used in hair fixative and styling products to hold individual hairs by creating a transparent substantive film on the hair fibres.

DIPL. ING. Katrin Steinbach, Dr Ulrich Schmidt – Eckart, Germany

Metal effect pigments have thin plateletlike particles composed of pure metals, e.g. aluminium and copper or metal alloys like bronze (copper/zinc). Unique beauty of the metallic colours derives from the play of light on the metal pigment surface caused by reflection and scattering of incident light. In the interplay with other colorants, metallic pigments are a versatile tool to adjust the shade of a colour as well as tinting strength and colour play.1 Aluminium pigments especially – as being additive to effects with many other colorants – can greatly increase the colour palette available to formulators if combined with organic absorption pigments and/or pearlescent pigments.

Mickey McDonnell – Honeywell Specialty Materials, US

What is a gel? Lots of products today are sold as gels, and many actually are correctly classified, although not all. Many people associate gels with thickness, and gels often do have that property, but not always. A gel has a distinct definition. If we know that definition and understand the basic physical principles governing gels, we will have good intuition to create and use gels to formulate better functioning and more innovative personal care products.

J.M. Carey, B. Moran, F. Shuster and B. Vondruska – Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Noveon Consumer Specialties, USA

Careful design of sensory properties can transform a skin care routine into a pleasant, memorable experience. Imagine being able to efficiently tailor sensory profiles to individual preferences. The Noveon Consumer Specialties group of Lubrizol Advanced Materials has developed visual tools that will enable formulators to easily select the appropriate products to meet desired formulation aesthetics and skin feel. These tools centre on proper selection of Carbopol polymer and Schercemol ester combinations to influence sensory properties, which is the essence of the SensiMap concept.

Marion Leschke, Wolfgang Siegert – Schülke & Mayr, Germany

The topic of preservation is always of importance to formulators and finished goods marketers. Formulators are aware of the necessity to adequately preserve their products in order to ensure product safety and be in compliance with legislation. This task is made much more difficult when marketing requirements are added to the factors influencing the preservative choice. Demands such as global approval, soft preservation, “free of…”, etc have limited the number of acceptable actives.

Kevin O’Lenick – SurfaTech Corporation, United States Tony O’Lenick – Siltech LLC, United States

A question asked by every formulator is: “How do I get the highly desirable properties of silicone in my formulation when formulating with silicone can provide its own set of problems? In short this is what we define as “The Silicone Conundrum”, an intricate and difficult problem. The selection of the proper silicone for a formulation requires the formulator to understand why the silicone is in the formula (for wetting, conditioning, emulsification, skin feel, film formation…) and which silicone provides that property most efficiently in the formula (with all the other ingredients). First and foremost, one must understand the chemistry of silicone polymers and the effect of structure on function.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The in-cosmetics event held earlier this year in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, had the most international visitor line-up of any of the shows in the series. Well-presented stands had much to interest the visitors. The show seemed very busy and indeed it was sometimes difficult to get onto stands and make the necessary contacts.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group, UK

REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.

PCHi, the dedicated event for the Chinese personal care and home care ingredients markets, will next be held in Guangzhou at the Jinhan Exhibition Centre (24-26 February 2009).

The event will continue to be a key networking and knowledge-driven platform with its international standard programme for hosting buyers and its first-rate conference.

Dr L. Fischer – AC Serendip, Germany Dr C. Thomas – Serendip AG, Switzerland

During recent decades, nanotechnology has become an integral part of research and development activity for cosmetic applications such as emulsions and sun care products.

Dr Jürgen Meyer – Evonik, Germany

Oil-in-water emulsions (O/W emulsions) play an important role in cosmetics: they are fundamental in the formulation of such products as body lotions, skin creams and sunscreens.

Reed Exhibitions, organiser of in-cosmetics India, has announced that Spectrum – a new show feature being launched at this year’s exhibition in Mumbai – will be rolled out in partnership with Mintel, the market research company, and Sensational Color, the US-based colour strategy consultancy.

Mickey McDonnell – Honeywell Specialty Materials, US

What is a gel? Lots of products today are sold as gels, and many actually are correctly classified, although not all. Many people associate gels with thickness, and gels often do have that property, but not always.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The in-cosmetics event recently held in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, had the most international visitor line-up of any of the shows in the series. Well-presented stands had much to interest the visitors, of whom 9% were from the Asia Pacific region. The show seemed very busy and indeed it was sometimes difficult to get onto stands and make the necessary contacts.

Anna Montero, Montserrat Mangues, Silvia Reyes, Elena Cañadas – Lipotec, Spain

Skin ageing can be divided into two basic processes, intrinsic ageing and photoageing. Intrinsic ageing is characterised by smooth, dry, pale and finely wrinkled skin while photoageing is a consequence of UV exposure and is associated with skin thickening, severe wrinkling and pigmentary changes.

Cheryl Gilbert – Balanced Essentials, Australia Pauline Rose RN – Complementary & Ecological Medicine, Australia Ric Williams B.Sc. Dip.Env.St. – NxGen Pharmaceuticals, Australia

Pain management, also called pain medicine, is the discipline concerned with the relief of pain. Examined first are current “pharmaceutical” products/systems for pain management.

Dr R.J.W. Hefford – Consultant, Independent Cosmetic Advice Ltd

This is the first in a series of articles which is intended to give an introduction into the science and technology of products designed to colour the hair. This series will cover:

· The history of hair colouring.

· The structure of the hair as well as how it is damaged.

· How hair colour is described.

· The technology of current products which will include direct dyeing as well as oxidative systems and bleaching.

· How to formulate hair colouring products.

· How hair colouring products are positioned in the market.

· The safety and regulation of hair dyes.

· The future of hair colouring technology.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group, UK

REACH, the new European Union (EU) regulation, which has its name formed from “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of CHemicals”, came into force a year ago and replaced a number of European Directives and Regulations with a single system.

REACH has global implications, as emphasised in Personal Care, January 2008, and meeting its requirements is far from straightforward.

As the technical manager of Cornelius, I am tasked with ensuring the company is fully compliant with the legislation. This has been, and will continue to be, an extremely onerous task due to the complex nature of the legislation and the, sometimes, ambiguous nature of the company’s position in the supply chain. Outlined in this article is how I have been tackling REACH issues.

Two major features of in-cosmetics Asia being held in Bangkok, Thailand (4-6 November 2008) will be a series of Marketing Trends presentations and a schedule of Innovations Seminars. The Marketing Trends presentations will reveal what is increasingly important from a variety of marketing perspectives, and what the “hot” topics will be in the year ahead.