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Anti-ageing

Chromocare (Sederma). An active substance which associates two plant extracts to form an anti-ageing skin care based on chromophore mapping. Normal human skin appearance to the eye under visible light (400-700 nm) is mainly driven by the concentration and distribution of melanin, haemoglobin and collagen. Noticed is a strong difference in the concentration and homogeneity of these chromophores between young and aged skin. It specifically targets each chromophore in order to confer the skin with a fresher, younger look. It reinforces the structure of the molecules and has an action on inflammatory mediators and free radicals and a direct effect on pigmentation. Chromophore mapping revealed a significant decrease in redness and brown spots and improvement in collagen homogeneity. Sambrani Extract (Alchem). INCI name: Sambrani. Improves skin firmness, prevents premature ageing. EpiCalmin TCM (Mibelle). INCI name: Lonicera japonica flower extract/Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract (and) Xanthium sibiricum fruit extract (and) Cyperus rotundus root extract (and) sodium benzoate (and) aqua/water. EpiCalmin TCM combines 3 different plants which were selected according to their strong soothing activity long known in TCM. The mechanism of activity for this specific plant combination was demonstrated by gene array analysis and its efficacy proved by in vivo studies. Results showed that EpiCalmin TCM effectively reinforces the skin’s selfprotection against dehydration, oxidative stress and also degradation of the extracellular matrix. Thus EpiCalmin TCM, which is Ecocert approved, actively protects the skin and prevents premature ageing. Homeostatine (Provital). INCI name: Enteromorpha compressa extract, Caesalpinia spinosa gum. Homeostatine is a combined active ingredient composed of a marine fraction and a plant polysaccharide. It rejuvenates the skin by reducing wrinkles and increasing skin firmness, moisture and elasticity. Sequential release system. Increases synthesis of collagen I and III, increases skin thickness, increases the elastic fibres, increases glucosaminoglycans, reduces metalloproteinases and inhibits the IL-1a stimulus. Kalpariane (Biotech Marine). Anti-wrinkle and replumping effect, remoisturises and revitalises the skin providing suppleness and elasticity. Helps to prevent stretch marks and wrinkles. Resveratrox Powder (Breko GmbH). INCI name: Inulin, Vitis vinifera [grape] vine extract. Resveratrox is a grapevine shoot extract from the plant species Vitis vinifera which is exclusively cultivated from vines of the area Bordeaux, France. Resveratrox increased the sirt-1 expression in the aged fibroblasts with a dose-dependent response. During skin ageing, certain numbers of biological markers decrease. An ex vivo test demonstrated that Resveratrox corrects this disordered state on four skin-ageing markers and indicated that Resveratrox corrects the decrease of sirt-1 expression in fibroblasts during ageing. Phytosan K (CLR). INCI name: Water, glycerin, glycine soja (soybean) seed extract. Proteins, glycoproteins and polysaccharides isolated from soybeans. Fights the signs of biological and UVinduced skin ageing. Acts as a biological sun protection factor by vitalising the skin’s own UV protection. Helps to prevent DNA damage due to UV. Stimulates regenerative functions of the skin and thereby improves skin firmness and structure. Phytessence Holyherb (Crodarom). INCI name: Butylene glycol, Eriodictyon californicum (holyherb) flower/leaf/stem extract. Its evergreen leaves are covered with a resin which protects the plant from the sun, thanks to its rich flavonoid content, which is mainly comprised of homoeriodictyol and eriodictyol. It is useful for anti-ageing face care, day care focusing on “anti-stress”, sun and after sun care, anti-pollution skin and hair care, protective body lotion, and wellness treatment. Pomegranate Seed CO2 extract (Flavex). INCI name: Punica granatum (pomegranate) seed extract. Fatty oil with more than 60% puninic acid (C18:3 w5), a valuable conjugated linolenic acid (CLNA). The extract contains tocopherols, sterols and a small amount of squalene. Application: in cosmetic products it is used for promoting skin regeneration, stimulating self repair mechanisms, improving skin elasticity, reducing wrinkles and as prophylaxis against skin ageing; calming and healing properties in cases of irritated, dry, sensitive, allergic and itching skin. TopicPure Schisandra Berries (Frutarom). It is protecting to mitochondrial activity to maintain activity and slow ageing. SalSphere Resveratrol (Salvona). INCI name: Water (and) synthetic wax (and) resveratrol (and) hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride (and) Polyquaternium-67 (and) phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin. The submicron spheres comprising resveratrol are hydrophobic and thus become associated with the proteinaceous portion of the skin or hair and improve the deposition of resveratrol onto skin and scalp. This technology prevents it from being washed off during rinsing and sustains the release of resveratrol, thereby enabling the release of the active over 3 hours. SalSphere resveratrol is the product to use when stable resveratrol [no discoloration] is needed for a water-based emulsion, enhanced bioavailability, and to deposit more on hair, skin, and scalp. Chondricare IS (ISP Vincience). INCI name: Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) pentapeptide. This new biofunctional ingredient is a synthetic pentapeptide that functions as a mimetic of the protein aconitase – a critical functional element of human cells that both stimulates cell metabolism during the Krebs cycle and protects mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) from oxidative damage – such as that caused by UVB radiation. By increasing the aconitase enzymatic activity in cells, Chondricare IS can help counteract the slowing of cell metabolism and help prevent mitochondrial DNA damage, both of which have been observed as conditions of the ageing process. It is used as an ingredient in antiageing formulations to protect mtDNA, in daily formulations to protect skin from UVinduced mtDNA damage and in night formulations for the regeneration of cell energy levels. Zenicyl (Silab). INCI name: Panicum miliacenum. It restores normal expression of ageing and stress markers, corrects the impact of emotional stress on skin quality. On young skin, it illuminates the complexion; on aged skin, it visibly reduces wrinkles, restoring 60-year-old skin to be characteristic of skin 15 years younger. An active ingredient rich in oligopeptides from germinated millet seeds. SymVital (Symrise). INCI name: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Rubus idaeus (raspberry) leaf extract. Highly effective anti-ageing complex that has shown 250% endogenous GAG increase and 80% endogenous collagen enhancement.

Antioxidants