Organic Monitor has reported that the move to new alternative preservative systems is driven by high consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics as well as the growing trend for formulators avoiding parabens.
Parabens are the most widely used preservatives, present in thousands of personal care products that include moisturisers, shampoos, toothpastes, lubricants, and gels. However, some consumers are avoiding products containing them because of non-scientifically proven safety concerns. Concerns over a possible ban are leading cosmetic companies to develop paraben-free formulations. According to Judi Beerling at Organic Monitor: “Many companies are using preservative systems that comprise multi-functional natural ingredients”. By using such ‘synergistic blends’, the material has anti-microbial properties while not having to be registered as a preservative with the respective authorities. Examples of such preservative systems include blended botanical extracts and spice extracts. Another development is self-preservation techniques, with some methods originating from the food industry. Hurdle technology involves creating hurdles to block growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; for instance, using materials that reduce the pH of the formulation. Some companies are adding emollients with membrane disrupting properties in cosmetic formulations, while others are boosting natural preservative systems by the use of chelating agents or a glycol alternative. Organic Monitor says that a major finding from their Technical Insights study is that these new alternative preservative systems are usually not as cost-effective as parabens. Most alternative preservatives have prices in multiples of that for parabens. There are also stability and safety issues associated with natural materials. Supply could also be an issue for large-scale production of cosmetic products. Customisation is another major development. Formulators are realising the ideal preservative system needs to be customised according to the product type, formulation and packaging. Packaging also plays an important role, with many natural and organic cosmetic companies using airless packaging to reduce contamination risks.
