Key areas for new research and development within the personal care sector were strongly highlighted at the 25th Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) held in Barcelona, Spain, in October, and attended by over 1,000 delegates from around the world.
In another keynote address, Dr Antonio Ferrer-Montiel, of the Miguel Hernández University, contended that neurogenic inflammation was a subject that needed focus in terms of cosmeceutical and dermatological drug development.
The spotlight turned to regulation when Dr José Vicente Castell, of the University of Valencia, examined, also in a keynote address, progress to meeting the 7th Amendment of the EC Cosmetics Directive (Council Directive 76/768/EEC) which relates to a regulatory framework for phasing out animal testing. The Directive has established a prohibition on testing finished cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients on animals (testing ban) and a prohibition to market, in the EC, finished cosmetic products and ingredients included in cosmetic products which were tested on animals (marketing ban).
The testing ban on finished cosmetic products has applied since 2004, whereas a testing ban on ingredients or a combination of ingredients has applied progressively as alternative methods have been validated and adopted. The final deadline for complying with the ban is 11 March next year, irrespective of the availability of alternative non-animal tests.
The marketing ban has been applied on a step-by-step basis as alternative approaches have been validated and adopted in EU legislation with due regard to the OECD validation process.
The marketing ban will come completely into force in March next year for all human health effects with the exception of repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics. For these special health areas, it is envisaged that full compliance will be required in March 2013, irrespective of the availability of non-animal tests. Dr Castell drew attention to how, to date, the majority of alternative approaches established were only suitable for hazard identification of cosmetic ingredients and not their risk characterisation.
The Congress was hosted by the Sociedad Española de Químicos Cosméticos (SEQC) which was celebrating the 50th anniversary of its formation. Participating in the opening ceremony were Prof Dr Johann Wiechers, president of the IFSCC; Joaquim Sisto, president of the congress executive board; and Ricard Armengol, SEQC president. Included in the event’s opening session was a “performance” conducted by perfumer Agustí Vidal. Delegates were given three phials of perfume and were encouraged to participate in a “journey” in which smell, and accompanying music were interwoven.
The congress programme included evaluations of molecular cosmetics relating to advances in research of new actives, new trends in formulation, assessment of cosmetic efficacy and steps forward in delivery techniques. In the area of wellbeing, there was study in an area in which cosmetics and the world of medicine converge. With protective strategies a further theme, the congress also looked at nutraceutical and other special cosmetics, recent trends in hair, nail and skin protection, and updated anti-ageing research findings.
In addition to papers delivered in conference sessions, delegates had opportunities to access over 300 scientific presentation posters and to tour an exhibition at which suppliers discussed a variety of new products and market trends.
