Use of vitamin A derivatives - the retinoids - is common in cosmetic formulations targeting the anti-ageing area. While retinoid acid is banned in the European Union as a cosmetic ingredient, other retinoids such as retinol are permitted.
However, retinoids can provoke unwanted effects such as dry and itchy skin, especially when exposed to sunlight. Here we show that an alternative, namely natural bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis, is able to bind the target receptors of retinoic acid and create retinoidacid-like efficacyin vivo.
Use of retinoic acid is the most powerful anti-acne treatment we know so far. It reprogrammes sebocytes and keratinocytes to regulate their genes back to the normal level.1 Thus, sebum production is reduced and hyper-keratinisation is diminished. However, retinoic acid is banned for cosmetic use in the EU and therefore, other vitamin A derivatives are used (retinoids). These derivatives are themselves inactive but are converted to retinoic acid in the tissues.2 Besides the use in anti-acne products, retinoids are powerful anti-ageing active ingredients as it was found that they have greater efficacy in wrinkle reduction and skin smoothing.3 Obviously, the use of retinoids has an influence on the biochemistry and metabolism of skin cells. They regulate numerous genes important for the skin’s appearance. For example, collagen genes are upregulated and genes responsible for fatty acid synthesis and inflammation are downregulated. In this way, retinoids not only reduce skin impurities but also reduce wrinkles and fine lines leading to a rejuvenation effect.
However, retinoids may lead to dry skin due to the sebum regulating function, which may also lead to skin irritations in some circumstances. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is seeking new mild ingredients with retinoid function and excellent skin compatibility. As an alternative, bioflavonoids from Maclura cochinchinensis, the active principle of Seboclear-MP , can fill this gap. Originally designed to treat acne-prone skin, the bioflavonoids of Seboclear-MP (INCI: Propanediol, Bioflavonoids) are able to bind to the nuclear receptors RAR (retinoic acid receptor) and RXR (retinoic X receptor) to turn back the cellular ageing clock.4
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