PCIA 2007 Guangzhou – a personal view

The PCIA exhibition was large, stimulating, and complemented by well-organised conference and workshop sessions. The valuable content of a number of conference papers was particularly notable.

The event was the first PCIA to be run by Reed Exhibitions, which acquired the show from Step Exhibitions last year. The next event in what has been the PCIA series will be called “in-cosmetics Asia” and held in Bangkok, Thailand, in November 2008. Below are selected notes collected from the 2007 event’s exhibition, conference, and workshops.

Arch

Kudzu Zymbiozome Fermentum
Pueraria lobata symbiosome (root nodule) extract offering free radical scavenging, enhances procollagen synthesis in fibroblasts and improves skin tone and elasticity. Arch Personal Care Products’ latest introduction in its biotechnological active platform is Kudzu Zymbiozome Fermentum (Assigned INCI designation: water (and) Pueraria lobata (Kudzu) symbiosome extract). It is based on an extraction from the root nodules of the kudzu plant (L. Pueraria lobata), which is renowned for its beauty and versatility.

Kudzu root nodules are enriched in a potent globin protein (leghemoglobin), affording skin brightening benefits and a key isoflavone (puerarin), imparting potent antioxidant properties to this extract. Key product attributes include improvement in skin tone, free radical scavenging-ROS and RNS, promotion of procollagen synthesis as well as antioxidant properties. Kudzu Zymbiozome Fermentum showed a dose-dependent increase in procollagen synthesis compared to untreated controls in human dermal fibroblasts at treatment levels greater than 1.0%. At the higher levels of Kudzu Zymbiozome Fermentum treatment (i.e. 1.5%), levels of procollagen production increased by 37.4% over the untreated control and were found to be comparable to ascorbic acid.

Codif

Pheoslim
Slimming agent for the stomach. This extract of a brown algae Phyllacantha fibrosa is especially formulated to fight against excess abdominal fat. This slimming active is recommended for mature women and men. INCI Name: water (and) Phyllacantha fibrosa extract.

Stoechiol
Anti-Wrinkles – For a quick lifting and removal of wrinkles. Stoechiol is a Spanish lavender oil (Lavandula stoechas) also called marine lavender, tested to evaluate its effects on the face wrinkles and muscular contractile activity. INCI name: caprylic capric triglyceride (and) Lavandula stoechas extract.

Phycojuvenine
Phycojuvenine is a concentrated extract of the brown algae Laminaria digitata (Laminariale order, Laminariaceae family). It diminishes cellular ageing markers, offers mitochondrial DNA protection by diminution of mitochondrial deletions, diminution of fibronectin expression and maintains a high level of chaperone proteins. It also causes a diminution in the proportion of positive SA b-galactosidase cells and shows a drifting of morphotypes into young forms. Phycojuvenine therefore protects against ageing and even seems to work as a cellular rejuvenator.

Concentre Coralline
A bio-available calcium concentrate. This concentrated Coralline officinalis extract has been found to be a bioavailable source of calcium and improves cell cohesion, improves communication between keratinocytes and optimises keratinocyte differentiation against both a hostile environment and reinforces epidermal resistance. INCI Name: water (and) Corallina officinalis extract.

Greensea

For nearly 15 years Greentech has been developing and producing active ingredients from plants and biotechnology in cosmetic and nutraceutical fields. Greentech is increasing its specialisation in research and development of marine actives and extracts from seaweeds and microalgae as a result of the activity of its subsidiary Greensea which has its own production site. This division is located near Montpellier and unlike its competitors is on the Mediterranean coast on the shore of “Etang de Thau”. The emphasis is on microalgae (as opposed to the normal macroalgae) grown in culture using 250 photo-bioreactors with a capacity of 130 L. This facility is complemented with an ultra-filtration plant, high pressure homogenisation, chromatography and cold water agitators.

Croda

Croda launched a cold process emulsification system for creating elegant emulsions from milks to creams that was quick and simple with no need for specialised processing equipment. Formulating with MixXlN ME means unrivalled versatility. Simply add the water or oil phases to MixXlN ME, and it is possible to achieve aesthetically pleasing products from economical milks to premium and elegant creams.

INCI name: caprylic/capric triglycerides (and) glycol stearate (and) PEG-3 glyceryl cocoate (and) Steareth-7. Conventionally, producing personal care emulsions would be considered an art. One must give careful consideration to the choice of ingredients, in which phase and at what temperature each component needs to be incorporated to ensure activity and efficacy to support label claims and skin feel factor. The final product must be economical to manufacture ensuring commercial viability.

MixXIN ME takes all the guesswork out. Easily incorporated with either the water phase or oil/water mix, MixXIN ME does not require premixing and allows high internal oil phase loadings. A broad raw material compatibility and cold emulsifying power ensures the activity and easy processing for key personal care ingredients from lanolin to peptides to silicones to preservatives.

The manufacturer claims exceptional cost efficiencies by cold processing (no heat or specialised equipment required), greater formulation flexibility and manufacturing ease, improved emulsion stability even at extreme temperatures, very efficient viscosity performance, enhanced sensory and aesthetic appeal with increased gloss, opacity and smooth after-feel, broad raw material compatibility from actives to oils to silicones, high internal phase loadings for even complex oils of up to 80 wt%.

Northstar Lipids

Northstar Lipids offers a fully integrated and supported supply chain and specialises in the supply of high value natural oils. It has over 20 years processing and commercial experience, working with customers in the nutritional and personal care industries. The focus is on sourcing and selecting seed crops and fruit seed lipids which contain high levels of Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs), the nutrients the body uses in tissue regeneration and hormonal balance. Years of nutritional research has demonstrated the health benefits of oils rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids and this work is increasingly showing how these also benefit the skin. An area of expertise is identifying oils which have nutritional benefits that can be applied to both dietary and skin care applications and this is supported through clinical research and technical support.

Offered is a broad range of oils to suit a variety of end uses. Many oils are extracted from raw materials grown under contract. Identifying and developing new products is integral to the company’s business philosophy and it is constantly searching for natural raw materials from which nutritionally beneficial oils can be extracted. These are then scaled up to full commercial production with all the relevant controls that today’s market demands.

Grapeseed, sunflower and soya bean are suggested as basic carrier oils; almond, apricot, avocado, hazelnut, sunflower and peach kernel as rapid emollients. Exotic oils like hemp, kiwi, flax, lime, camelina, passionfruit, perilla and sesame are suggested as skin conditioners with echium, evening primrose, borage and blackcurrant recommended for skin repair and anti-ageing products. The featured oils at the show were lime seed oil with a broad fatty acid profile and a pale green colour and sweet citrus odour and kiwi fruit seed with a fixed triglyceride oil also rich in alpha linolenic acid (ALA).

R.T. Vanderbilt Company

Vanderbilt was showing Vanatural, a rapidly hydrating, water-washed bentonite clay that was a pure and natural suspension stabiliser, emulsion optimiser and rheology modifier for all topical products. It was particularly suited for creams, lotions, suspensions and other personal care products marketed as “natural”. The INCI name for Vanatural is Bentonite and this material provides all the benefits of purified bentonite clay.

Arkema through Bronson & Jacobs

The Arkema’s Orgasol range for the cosmetic market. Orgasol is a range of ultrafine polyamide powders that are manufactured by the polymerisation of lauryl and caprolactam, with process additives of synthetic and vegetable origin. The special synthesis process gives them an extremely narrow particle size distribution, and ensures that both the structure and the morphology of Orgasol powders are very different from those of ground powders. Orgasol ultrafine powders are essential to give skin care and colour cosmetics formulations a very soft touch. Two nylons are available with different diameters and absorption properties on offer that give the Orgasol range the wideranging expectations of the cosmetic market.

Agipal

AGIPAL is a French company that promotes natural raw materials for the cosmetic industry and is a specialist in essential oils and vegetable oils (e.g. Inca Chili Peru, raspberry seed and Chilean hazelnut virgin oils). Agipal also offered natural alpha bisabolol from Brazil, Essentiaderms (mixture of essential oils with defined properties), Cohobats (concentrated aromatic waters: rose, linden, orange flowers), extracts (as trinitea and searose) and phytoderms (botanic extract as phytoderm hydramare SG).

PCIA conference papers

Skin cell adhesion: mechanisms and molecules
Dr Arturo Puig of Lipotec
This was one of the best presentations seen among many a conference. The graphics and skin structures shown in this presentation were stunning and the whole lecture was a fascinating insight into the latest skin biology.

The importance of skin cell adhesion was highlighted. Cell adhesion is important for the normal functioning of living organisms. The cell adhesion proteins hold together the components of tissues, are important for the function of migratory cells (leukocytes) and hold neuronal synapses together. The regulation of cell adhesion proteins is important during embryonic development.

Inherited molecular defects in genes for adhesion proteins can cause illnesses such as cancer or Alzheimer’s disease. New strategies for cosmetics. As we age, keratinocytes lose the ability to stick to the basement membrane. Keratinocytes can only proliferate while they are in contact with the basement membrane. It is important to fight the degeneration of the dermo-epidermal junction and maintain the connection between keratinocytes and the basement membrane by a recommended strategy using actives that can boost the synthesis of Laminin, Integrin, etc., in order to favour the cohesion between dermis and epidermis.

Similarities and differences of Asian and Caucasian skin
Roderico Estanislao from Johnson & Johnson
This paper looked remarkably familiar and it was admitted that this very fine paper had been presented at a previous conference, but to date had never been published. The shear volume of data and complexity of this paper made it a welcome repeat. The design instrumental measurements included fluorescence spectrophotometer – skin cell turnover and collagen cross-links. Suction and release was used to measure skin elasticity, and skin conductance for skin moisture, trans-epidermal water loss to measure skin barrier integrity, tape transparency to evaluate the sebum level, pH meter to show skin pH and visible light digital imaging and analysis for the measurement of skin colour.

The conclusions showed that some other earlier studies would have conflicting results. This study was done on subjects residing in their native location. Both Asian and Caucasian skin manifest similar changes in physical properties with ageing, although the degree may vary. The increase in collagen cross-links with ageing, manifests in deterioration of skin elasticity. Skin moisture, TEWL, sebum and cell turnover rate decrease explaining the tactile changes on skin, giving it the dry texture and dull look.

Both Asian and Caucasian skin also exhibit similar reaction to seasonal changes. However, there are still some differences that exist. Intact Asian skin provides better barrier from within (i.e., higher moisture, lower TEWL). It is resistant to manifestations of lines and sagging.

Biomedicine and cosmeceuticals
Professor Yang ZhiGang
An interesting paper on the Chinese skin care industry, richly illustrated with the history and products of China. A real treat for the delegate.

New regulations in Asia
Dr Alain Khaiat of Seers Consulting
Regulations in Asia are changing and adapting to the progress in cosmetic science. With ASEAN representing some 500 million potential consumers, China another 1.2 billion and India over a billion this part of the world accounts for no less than half of the world’s population. Economic development is very diverse with Japan one of the most developed economies and in contrast, Cambodia and Lao still being far behind. But the pace of economic development is certainly one of the fastest ranging anywhere between seven and 10% a year in those developing countries. The new ASEAN Cosmetic Directive is going to take effect as of 1 January 2008. China is also proposing a new regulation modelled after the EU Directive. Dr Khaiat reviewed those proposed or agreed changes, how they were going to impact the way the industry was going to do business and what were the major issues to be addressed. Some countries, like Japan, Korea or Taiwan had no plans to modify their regulations. He reviewed those briefly and we saw how different these were from those of the new block formed by ASEAN and China especially as Free Trade Agreements were being negotiated between them. This was a very interesting and well presented paper that was well received.

Cosmetics regulation overview
Dr Caroline Li, Head of Regulatory Affairs, Asia Pacific Expert Services, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (S) Pte Ltd
Dr Li took on the daunting task of presenting not only the China regulation for cosmetics materials but also gave an overview of US, EU and Japanese regulation on cosmetics. The Chinese regulations appeared more bureaucratic than the European regulations, although the legislation was very similar. The Japanese regulations continued to be quite unique to Japan, fairly complicated to implement and certainly not for the faint hearted.

Guidelines for the safety assessment of a cosmetic product
Dr Alain Khaiat of Seers Consulting
The purpose of his guidelines was to help the cosmetic industry in assessing the safety of the product as well as the Regulators in auditing the data contained in the Product Information File (PIF). This guideline served to highlight some of the important considerations in the safety assessment of cosmetic product in line with Article 8d of the ASEAN Cosmetics Directive1 which requires an “assessment of the safety for human health of the finished product, its ingredients, its chemical structure and its level of exposure”. This safety assessment is to be performed by a qualified professional defined as the “Safety Assessor”. Dr Khaiat’s paper was a comprehensive discussion of the implications and requirements for safety assessment of a cosmetic product.

PCIA workshops

Test methods, design and data interpretation
Roderico Estanislao, Johnson & Johnson
Claims are an integral part of any product in the market. They are powerful in convincing a consumer to at least think of buying or trying a new product released in the market. Claims, however, should always be properly substantiated, not only because of regulatory requirement, but more importantly to ensure that consumers experience the benefits that are stated.

The articulation of the claim determines the appropriate type of substantiation that needs to be generated. Different in vivo and in vitro test methods and designs are presented in the fields of cleansing, moisturisation, whitening, acne and antiageing, focusing on the scientific approach to properly evaluate these different skin parameters or conditions. Interpretation of different types of data generated from these tests: expert evaluation, instrumental measurements and subject selfassessment, were discussed. This was an excellent paper that could only leave many a delegate feeling intensely jealous of the wonderful equipment available to the workshop speaker.

Efficacy performance test for rinse-off hair care product
Christina He, Dow Corning
Formulators needed to develop improved formulations at a faster pace than before due to the shorter and shorter product life cycles in the personal care market, especially the shampoo market. This workshop explained how both instrumental and human sensory test methods could help the formulators to evaluate rinse-off hair care products more efficiently. Developed was a combing test on a new combing machine. The key parameter on this machine focused on the dry combing force. This instrumental test allowed formulators to have an objective measurement of formulations’ dry-combing performance immediately.

In-house wet and dry sensory test by using hair tresses: with these methods, several attributes such as smoothness, softness and ease of combing were evaluated. By applying multiple comparison techniques and statistic analysis methods, a very good understanding of a formulation performance for a broad range of parameters was gained. Several recent studies showed as examples: correlation between instrumental and sensory test; impact of different silicone levels in a formulation on product performance; the importance of right combination between silicone material and cationic polymer and the performance variation between virgin and bleached hair stresses.

Optimising clinical efficacy via optimising skin penetration
Johann Wiechers, Uniqema
In his presentation Johann Wiechers, currently still at Croda but soon to be independent as a consultant in the field of optimising skin delivery from topical formulations, spoke on exactly that issue. He indicated that at least 95% of current cosmetic products are not formulated well with respect to the skin delivery of the active ingredient. He spoke about a systematic approach to enhance the skin delivery of active ingredients in a threestep process. He first identified a primary emollient in which the active ingredient is very soluble but the driving force for diffusion is very low. This ensures that there is enough active ingredient in the formulation in the first place, the first requirement for efficacious skin formulations. He then identified a secondary emollient in which the active ingredient is not very soluble but still miscible with the first one. This ensures that there is a good driving force for diffusion of the active ingredient into the skin. He found these two emollients not by doing many experiments but by calculating their so-called RPIs, their relative polarity index, which is a measure for the chemical difference between the active ingredient and the emollient. Via a non-disclosed mechanism, he then optimised the ratio between the primary emollient, secondary emollient and active ingredient and this combination guarantees optimal delivery of the active ingredient. Using octadecenedioic acid as an example, he also showed how this enhanced skin delivery formulation also resulted in an enhanced skin efficacy. In his own words “let the active ingredient sweat”. He then continued by showing that the “Formulating for Efficacy” approach can also lead to a reduction in the dose of the active ingredient without losing skin efficacy. Finally, less could be more.

Johann Wiechers deserved to be named the “man of the match”: his huge contribution at the ASCS in Singapore event and his considerable contribution to the PCIA event in Guangzhou were notable. His future with Uniqema following its takeover by Croda remains uncertain, but Dr Wiechers has a huge contribution still to make as the future president of the IFSCC and we are sure he will succeed whatever the future has in store for him.

Release and penetration: important aspects to achieve in demonstrating in vivo efficacy of cosmetic ingredients
Dr Joachim Roeding, Symrise
Modern cosmetic research strategies to identify new active ingredients are focusing on the screening of numerous substances using very sophisticated high throughput in vitro enzyme or skin cell culture assays. Many new molecules with high in vitro efficacy can be identified with such techniques within a short time. However excellent in vitro activity does not necessarily correlate with high in vivo efficacy when applied in a cosmetic emulsion on human skin. There are two major borderlines that have to be overcome by any active ingredient. First of all the active ingredient has to liberate from the emulsion system within a desired time and following a preferred timeconcentration profile. Secondly, any active ingredient except e.g. UV filters acting on the skin surface, has to penetrate into the skin to reach its specific target like the stratum corneum, the epidermis, the dermis or the subcutaneous fat layer.

Regarding liberation behaviour many different types of cosmetic formulations, a huge setup of encapsulation techniques and specific liberation enhancers can be used to design and to optimise liberation kinetics of actives. Regarding the penetration challenge, the outermost layer of the human skin, the stratum corneum, is mainly responsible for its barrier function. Many topically administered actives do not have the ability per se to penetrate the stratum corneum. In these cases modulation of the skin penetration profiles and skin barrier manipulation are necessary. A skin penetration enhancement can be achieved either chemically with penetration enhancers, physically with e.g. iontophoresis but again also by developing an appropriate cosmetic formulation. In contrast there are cases where skin penetration of the active ingredient of the formulation is not the aim of the topical administration. Therefore, penetration reducers can be used to prevent chemicals entering the systemic circulation. This presentation gave a brief overview and selected examples of cosmetic applications about the impact of the type of cosmetic formulation and the use of enhancers on liberation and penetration behaviour of active ingredients for cosmetics. In this context modern analytical tools to investigate liberation and penetration profiles were described and discussed.

Conclusions

This was without doubt an excellent event and in my opinion the conference and workshops were the best ever. The sheer increasing size of the exhibition and technical content of the conference programme make a full review ever harder. I hope that this personal view gives a glimpse of the value of this show.