Helichrysum italicum is a flowering plant of the Asteraceae family. The plant produces essential oil from its blossoms which is used for medicinal purposes including antiinflammatory, fungicidal and astringent properties.
In addition, it soothes burns and raw chapped skin. In order to find other properties for cosmetic uses, mainly to prevent skin ageing, we compared chemical composition and efficacy of Helichrysum italicum essential oils coming from different geographical origins: Corsica and Balkan.
By chromatography analysis, we showed that the composition of the Corsican oil is dominated by neryl acetate, while the Balkan one features a-pinene and a-caryophyllene and the relative abundance of the corresponding constituents is significantly different according to the origin. In addition, using cDNA array, we demonstrated that genes related to skin barrier and cohesion show higher expression in skin samples treated with the Corsican oil than in those treated with the Balkan oil. This study demonstrates that the Corsican essential oil could be more efficient than the Balkan one in promoting skin barrier function and hydration.
The predominant problem with ageing skin is a disturbed barrier function characterised by wrinkle formation in the epidermis, sagging, skin thinning, dryness, a reduced immune response and a slow wound healing.1 A dysregulation of the fibroblasts metabolic activity is also observed. The primary function of the skin is to act as a protective barrier between the organism and its external environment, minimising water loss from the body while, at the same time, preventing the entry of pathogens and allergens. Epidermal barrier dysfunction can exacerbate sensitive skin conditions, dryness and infections. In this respect, an intact cornified envelope (CE) is of utmost importance.
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