Skin is a large and complex tissue where the orchestrated actions of resident cells are necessary to support its structural and metabolic integrity. Cells of the epidermis (mainly keratinocytes) play a role in protecting from environmental stress such as UV exposure, mechanical damage and pro-oxidative attacks. Perhaps more importantly, top layers of the epidermis along with a lipid-rich intercellular matrix form the skin barrier.
It is no secret that the skin barrier is fundamental in preventing excessive water evaporation thereby supporting normal skin hydration levels. A functional barrier also prevents penetration of allergens that sometimes can exacerbate sensitive skin conditions. With age, the rate of epidermal cell renewal and the ability of the skin barrier to repair from a physical insult decrease.
Ageing not only weakens epidermal structures and functions but also deregulates the metabolic activity of fibroblasts. Indeed, some metabolic pathways are increased and others are decreased in aged skin fibroblasts. The best example is the general reduction in collagen synthesis and the augmentation in the production of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) causing a gradual dismantling of the extracellular matrix (ECM) organisation.
We tested a laminaria extract (commercial name: Regenesea™-LS, INCI Name: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Laminaria saccharina extract) for its effects on epidermal molecular pathways using cDNA experiments on human skin equivalents. We also verified the ability of the laminaria extract in rejuvenating aged skin fibroblasts at the gene expression level. The actions of the extract were confirmed clinically by measuring various parameters including skin barrier function, hydration, skin smoothness, wrinkle density and volume as well as visco-elastic properties.
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