Skin pigmentation controlled via intelligent targeting

The development of any cosmetic product focuses generally on two factors: efficacy and safety. Both factors are closely related to the concentration of use, either because a minimum amount of assets are required in order to obtain visible results, or to adjust the amount to avoid unwanted effects.

The new and future regulations in the cosmetic market are driven, in a large part, to determine the efficacy described in the labelling and, above all, to improve the safety of products placed on the market.

The aim of new technologies in delivery systems is focused on increasing the effectiveness of the active ingredient through an efficient system that allows the preselection of specific skin cells. The ability to target a delivery system to specific cells may not only avoid non-specific interactions in other cells, but also release the active content in the target intact, ensuring its bioavailability, reducing the concentration required to achieve active and visible results and, above all, to ensure the safety profile of the final product.

As part of this concept, delivery system targeted to melanocytes is developed to modulate pigmentation key processes: first, from the potential to affect ligand binding to αMSH receptor and, second, to inhibit expression of the enzyme responsible for melanogenesis: tyrosinase. An overview about how a targeted delivery system may decrease the tone of the skin by its interference with the process of pigmentation is presented in this review.

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