Novel multifunctional film-forming system

Film-formers are particularly important in colour cosmetics where they can increase the wear properties of formulations such as lipsticks, mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows and foundations. They can have a significant effect on the ease of application of a cosmetic product as well as the appearance of the product on the skin, and the length of the time that the product remains on the skin. A wide range of both oil-soluble and water-soluble film-formers are currently used, all with their own advantages and disadvantages. Formulators and consumers look for different properties in film-formers at different times. In general the most desirable film-formers would create films that are:

•     Strong and long-lasting
•     Quick drying
•     Non-tacky
•     Light and comfortable on the skin w Easy to remove when required
•     Able to hold and deliver active ingredients
•     Cost-effective

Alzo International has developed a new film-forming system for personal care applications which provides all of these desirable benefits in a system that is easy to use and compatible with many different types of formulation. Alzo has named this system NuPLastic, and it consists of a Polyderm polyurethane dispersion and a NuLastic silicone elastomer,1 which work together to give long-lasting, flexible, emollient and versatile films. The film forms as the formulation sets onto the skin, and the NuPLastic system can be tailored to be extremely fast drying, often taking less than a minute from wet application to formation of a dry film, even when containing a high percentage of oil phase. What makes this system unique is that the NuLastic silicone elastomer acts as a plasticiser for the Polyderm polyurethane dispersion,2 enabling the cosmetic formulator to benefit from the strong films formed by the polymers, but with a vastly improved skin feel and ease of formulation.