A visit to any recent personal care ingredients exhibition would soon show you that marine ingredients are increasingly popular. This is unsurprising as the sea remains a seemingly limitless source of chemical compounds, many of which have potential applications in the personal care industry.
This area of technological innovation fits well with numerous niches, perhaps the most important of these is the sustainable nature of marine biotechnology. Consumers are also highly receptive to the idea of marine ingredients in finished products, so often the marine concept is included in the overall marketing campaign. Following is a selection of some of the most innovative new marine-derived ingredients on the market.
BiotechMarine
Sea Shine is a natural active ingredient extracted from two brown seaweeds sourced in the pure waters of the Brehat archipelago (Brittany, France) and is designed to lighten skin. It is the result of comprehensive and innovative research on the mechanisms involved in skin pigmentation, whereby it was proven to significantly reduce the expression of several genes, enzymes and proteins involved in melanosome transport and transfer, in the migration of melanocytes to keratinocytes, and in the absorption of melanosomes by keratinocytes. Sea Shine is also compliant with China, Ecocert, and Cosmos regulations. Phenylalanine hydroxylase is an enzyme responsible for the transformation of the phenylalanine to tyrosine. A study carried out on a melanocyte/keratinocyte coculture containing 1% Sea Shine shows after 24 hours of treatment an enzyme inhibition of 29%. Protease-activated receptor-2 helps the cutaneous pigmentation by increasing the melanosomes absorption by the keratinocytes. Sea Shine (1%) inhibits PAR-2 production by 23% in a melanocyte/ keratinocyte co-culture model. Sea Shine (1%) shows a significant effect on the gene expression involved in the cutaneous pigmentation. It induces a significant down regulation of –31% of the TRP-1 protein gene expression. This protein plays a stabilising role on the tyrosinase and is specific to eumelanin production. Also, a reduction of –28% of EDNRB gene expression was induced. EDNRB is a receptor of endothelin, and the interaction between these two elements stimulates tyrosinase activation. A lightening effect in vivo study of a day cream containing Sea Shine (1%) that was applied twice a day on 20 volunteers over 56 days determined a significant lightening effect on D56 compared to D0.
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