A new, natural oil thickener investigated

Creating highly viscous or soft-solid oil phases without losing the sensorial profile is a task not easy to accomplish for cosmetic formulators. There are few possibilities and only a few ingredients that will have a viscosity-increasing effect on liquid oils without altering the sensorial profile.

There are some mineral, wax or emulsifier based thickening systems that are actually able to increase the viscosity, but usually dramatically change the sensorial profile of the oil, often turning it sticky on the skin. However, there is a demand of many formulators to turn liquid oils into a soft, easily spreadable paste. The target is not to alter the skin feel of the oil or oil mixture, to have a soft paste presented as a jar product or with pump dispensers and finally a compatibility with a large range of different oils. The typical product concepts for these formulations are massage oils, body oils, water-free sun care products, lubricants, surfactantfree make-up removers and others. Many oils deliver a pleasant sensorial sensation to the skin. They feel soft, caring, they are easily spreadable and film-forming. However, everybody has also noticed the unpleasant side effects of this application. When liquid oils drip on clothes or run down the skin and stain materials that were not supposed to be in contact with the oil. In a nutshell, this means that the positive physical properties of the oil make it difficult to have a clean and precise application on the skin.

Thickening made easy

dermofeel viscolid (INCI Name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) is a new, 100% natural ingredient that makes the thickening of oils very easy. It is composed of a mixture of hydrogenated plant oils, among which some cultivars produce long chain fatty acids that are perfect for creating the thickening-network within the oil. Being of the same chemical nature like the oils it is perfectly miscible with these and forms a homogenous creamy and soft-solid product. Depending on the dosage of dermofeel viscolid it is possible to increase the viscosity to more solid textures, this depends on the formulator’s needs. The typical concentration range is between 3%-10% and depending on the dosage an increasing viscosity is reached as can be seen in the example with sunflower oil (Figs. 3 and 4). The new hydrogenated vegetable oil can be used with various oils. The dosedependent effect is very similar to virgin plant oils, natural or semi-synthetic ester oils, mineral oils or silicon oils. Therefore the spectrum of use is very broad and it can be used in traditional silicon based concepts or 100% certified natural products, too. Various examples for the thickening effect with different oils at concentrations of 5%, 10% and 15% of the new hydrogenated vegetable oil can be seen in Figure 5. And finally the thickening of mixed oil phases is no problem either. Figure 6 shows various compositions of mixed oil phases that, with increasing dosage of the new hydrogenated vegetable oil, show the same viscosity increasing effect as single oils.

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