FEATURE ARTICLES

Biological properties of olive leaf extract

EurolBT is an active ingredient for cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications that is a 100% natural aqueous extract derived from Olea europaea (olive) tree leaves. EurolBT is endowed with very interesting properties that mainly rely on its free radical scavenging action.1

European Cosmetic Directive consolidated

The many amendments to the Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 was leading to confusion and different interpretations by some member states. The unification of the regulations should be a good thing and Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (recast), Official Journal of the European Union L342/59 on 22 December 2009 is the universal hymn sheet from which we should all be singing.

Natural actives: a review

There are many occasions when formulators want to be sure that products they are making contain a discernible level of active material. There are many extracts that are standardised against a particular active component, but at the level used in the formula may be insufficient to satisfy its functional purpose.

Mixing and rheology explained

Cosmetic formulations consist of complex ingredient mixtures. The nature of these ingredients does not always allow for simple mixing. Oil and water as two phases of an emulsion can be mixed but cannot be kept stable as a mixture without the help of an emulsifier and the right mixing equipment.

Improving skin comfort via nervous system modulation

In the neurocosmetic field, two complementary ways the targeting modulation of the cutaneous nervous system can be used to promote skin comfort and wellbeing: reduction of unpleasant skin sensations by an endorphin-like approach and skin wellbeing induction by dopamine stimulation.

Alkyl dimethicone as modifiers of oils

Compounds that have two or more groups that are insoluble in each other are referred to as amphiphilic materials. It is the presence of these groups that makes a molecule surface active.

New biological strategy corrects cellulite

With the influence of fashion and media, consumers are searching for the miracle solution to have the perfectly sculpted body figure. Seppic’s recentlydeveloped “SOS Silhouette” programme addresses that demand with curative and preventative slimming ingredients targeting the adipocytes (fat cell storage).

Preservatives for personal care products

Preservatives are chemical compounds added to products to prevent the growth of microorganisms. They are intended to be added to clean products to prevent contamination by consumers while in use.

Japan cosmetics market: an overview

In this instalment, Kunio Shimada discusses the academic levels of Japanese cosmetics researchers and their major study topics.

Meeting the challenges of stem cell therapies

Stem cell therapies are currently being trialled for a range of conditions including spinal cord injuries, Crohn’s disease, osteoarthritis, diabetes, acute myocardial infarction and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease.

Progress on colorectal cancer screening

Following the introduction of the national colorectal cancer screening programme, a study has been undertaken by the University Hospital of Coventry and Warwickshire to assess public awareness and perceptions of the initiative.

Toxicology of essential oils reviewed

This is the final section of the article on essential oils. The new consolidated regulation of the european parliament and of the council on cosmetic products (recast) 2008/0035 (COD) 10 November 2009 places a huge burden on formulators and toxicologists to ensure the safety of cosmetic products placed on the market which goes far beyond the old safety assessments.

Exporting to the US: important guidance

Marketing personal care products in the United States often involves interaction with the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA regulates a wide array of consumer goods including food, beverages, health supplements, drugs, biologics, medical devices, veterinary drugs, cosmetics, radiation emitting products, and more recently, tobacco.

Challenge of preserving cosmetics

Preservatives ensure product safety and quality and therefore play an important role in every personal care formulation. This article addresses the challenge of choosing the right preservative system and gives some guidance for decision makers.

Winning time in fight

Seppic has made significant strides forward in the fight against ageing through development of two active ingredients named TimeCode and SurviCode. For the first time, the ageing genetic print has been defined and the “youth capital” code of the cells decoded.

Stress-related cutaneous disorders treated

The plague of a generation, stress is everywhere in our hectic lives. We have all used the term “stress” to define what we feel (acceleration of the heartbeat, increased perspiration, etc.) in unsettling or unexpected situations.

Shea butter with improved moisturisation properties

Shea butter has recently become a very popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care applications due to its good emolliency and moisturising properties. The high content of unsaponifiable lipids, especially triterpene cinnamates, contributes to skin healing and restoration by anti-inflammatory action.

Inside Philippines cosmetics market

In a country where an estimated 30% of the population exist below the poverty line, it is indeed surprising to note that the Philippine cosmetics industry registers an average 7.7% growth rate a year, and hit sales of over US$2 billion in 2008.

Manila event to boost formulators’ skills

Suppliers of technical products and services often assume their customers have the knowledge and skills to take their sample and product data sheet and turn them into a finished cosmetic product. It seems this is not the case.

Functional moisturiser raises skin barrier function

The skin provides the first and most efficient defence of the body against water loss and external aggressions.

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17th Sun Protection Conference 2025

Royal College of Physicians, London
24 - 25 June 2025

in-cosmetics Korea 2025

COEX, Seoul
2nd - 4th July 2025