Shea butter with improved moisturisation properties

Shea butter in all its forms is also easy to formulate with, especially if one of the butters specifically developed for cosmetic applications is used. All in all, this indicates that shea butter is both a functional and marketable ingredient with a long history of safe use in cosmetics and explains well its popularity in modern skin care. With new developments such as Lipex Sheasoft from AAK, the formulation opportunities are better than ever.

Shea butter is available in many forms

Shea butter is obtained from the kernels of the shea tree (also known as the karité tree) which grows in the semi-arid savannah of sub-Saharan Africa. The shea butter trade is a very important factor for the economy of the communities in this area and has a long history as a source for edible fat and for skin treatments. The original shea butter is a yellowish paste with a characteristic odour and refining is normally required to produce an ingredient for cosmetic use. The shea butter can be further processed into a variety of ingredients with improved functionality and today a large range of shea butters for cosmetic use is available. Properties such as the melting point and melting profile, as well as the content of unsaponifiable matter, can be optimised to meet requirements for different applications. Liquid shea butter is ideal for light formulations and for cold processing while semi-solid butters are better suited for heavier formulations and for fine-tuning the consistency of the formulation. The selection of a shea butter ingredient in a formulation usually depends on the type of formulation, its desired sensory profile and the positioning of the formula in the market.