Natural actives: a review

There are many occasions when formulators want to be sure that products they are making contain a discernible level of active material. There are many extracts that are standardised against a particular active component, but at the level used in the formula may be insufficient to satisfy its functional purpose.

In these cases the addition of active material may be a solution. The industry has been slowly adding to the portfolio of these materials and it was thought appropriate to conduct a review of single active materials sold at >90% active. Provided here are instances of sources of supply but it is possible that this is not a comprehensive list and that not all the actives have been discovered.

Allantoin

This material is also known as glyoxydiureide or 5-ureidohydantoin and its history is very interesting. During World War I it was observed that soldiers in trenches appeared to heal of their wounds more quickly than those kept under sanitary conditions. Upon investigation it was found that the trenches were infested with maggots, which were crawling over their wounds. Further investigation revealed that the substance secreted by the maggots which was contributing to the improved healing was allantoin. It also occurs in tobacco seeds, sugar beet, wheat sprouts and comfrey (0.8%) as well as in rice polishings and in the bark of horse chestnut. Allantoin is a topical vulnerary and is a skin ulcer therapy.1 In the veterinary field it has been used topically to stimulate the healing of suppurating wounds and resistant ulcers. In the 5th edition 1941,2 it reported that it was used externally to stimulate cell proliferation in 0.3-0.5% aqueous solutions. It was for ulcers, nonhealing wounds, fistulas etc. INCI name: Allantoin. Supplier: Clariant.

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