FEATURE ARTICLES

Squalane has been used in cosmetic formulations for many years as a highly effective emollient oil. It is derived from the hydrogenation of squalene which was, for many years, extracted from the liver oil of certain species of deep water sharks.

A new technique for solubilising lipids on a natural basis, and that is able to incorporate over 30% of lipids, has been used as a vehicle to obtain innovative cosmetic ingredients that are ideal for delivering a reduced amount of actives by keeping a high level of efficacy, in the form of a clear and jellying emulsion.

Fluid formulas are generally well appreciated by consumers as they encourage even and smooth application. However, the main difficulty with this area is the combining of good flowing properties with reproducible viscosities and good stability, especially at high temperatures.

Dr Richard Smith is the COO of Vivimed Labs Limited, with responsibility for the speciality chemicals business, which includes the beauty care and industrial care portfolios. He was previously managing director of James Robinson, which was bought by Vivimed in 2008. Personal Care spoke to Dr Richard Smith about the links between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and what the future holds for the personal care industry.

The China Cosmetic market is always likely to be an interesting and attractive prospect to global cosmetic companies, due to the country’s huge population. China’s cosmetic market has demonstrated impressive growth over the past few years, however, the complicated cosmetic regulatory system and its rapid amendments make the cosmetic import business full of twists, turns and difficulties.

Humans are constantly exposed to harmful foreign chemicals and materials from exogenous and endogenous sources. As a result, defence mechanisms have evolved to protect against toxin overload.1 Cells are under constant threat from metabolic waste products and xenobiotics. The formation of phase I and phase II metabolism mobilises and excretes these mainly lipophilic toxins.

After a difficult year for some cosmetics companies in 2009, much hope had been placed on in-cosmetics 2010 at Porte de Versailles, Paris, to deliver reasons for renewed optimism.

Wrinkles, lack of firmness or sagginess are the most visible signs of skin ageing. A variety of environmental, hormonal, and genetic factors results in skin elasticity loss. Mature skin becomes less elastic and less able to resist any deformation, leading to many of the visible manifestations of ageing.1

Most people today accept without question the importance of vitamins and minerals to health and that extreme deficiency can lead to serious diseases such as scurvy.

Phormiskin Bioprotech G is a skin rejuvenator. This biotechnological concentrate of original life stimulates the synthesis of thioredoxin in the dermal and epidermal cells, delays skin senescence and improves skin radiance, freshness and homogeneity.

The potential for cosmetic formulations to induce skin irritation is an important consideration for cosmetics producers. Irritation potential may be predicted by in vitro systems, provided they are sufficiently complex to mimic the skin barrier in vivo.

From the figures released following Biofach and Vivaness exhibitions, the trend towards organic and ecologically sustainable consumption is obviously uninterrupted.

Having initially focused on transforming trade within the food and fashion industries, and with UK sales topping £800 million in 2009, Fairtrade‘s doors have now opened to a whole new sector.

Organic Beauty first became established in western markets such as the UK, US and France but it is currently sweeping the rest of the world, picking up momentum across Asia.

This study focuses on studying different properties of Lubrizol’s range of short to medium flow crosslinked polyacrylate rheology modifiers and their effect on the sensory of the end products.

The saponins are found in many plants, but first got their name from the soapwort plant or Saponaria officinalis, the roots of which were traditionally used as a natural soap.

Dermatopoietin-Plus is a mixture of two peptides which act synergistically to renew the dermal skin structure and reduce hair loss. One component is recombinant interleukin-1 alpha, an epidermal cytokine, which is expressed by keratinocytes on a constitutive basis.

In this issue we continue to explore the active raw materials that have been found in the fascinating world of plant chemistry.

Dr Alain Khaiat is one of the most respected experts working in personal care today. During his 30 years in the industry, he has been vice president of the R&D departments for Revlon, Yves Rocher and, most recently, Johnson & Johnson.

With an export market worth in excess of e4.5 billion,1 France is Europe’s largest exporter of cosmetics and toiletries and arguably its most competitive. Supplying ingredients to its manufacturers is therefore no doubt a challenging proposition.