Bangkok show brings Asian market together

 in-cosmetics Asia 2010 was held at the BITEC Centre on the outskirts of the city from 2 to 4 November and represented a great success for both exhibitors and visitors. A total of 4,691 visitors attended the show, which is a 35% increase from the previous Bangkok show in 2008, and with 230 exhibitors, 2010 marked a year when the personal care industry in Asia saw impressive expansion. The Facial Beauty Conference, held during the second day of the exhibition, brought together international experts to present on skin whitening, anti-ageing and anti-acne. The skin-whitening industry is worth an estimated $18 billion in Asia and provides huge commercial opportunities for global cosmetic manufacturers – something that visitors were particularly interested to hear about. A series of theoretical and practical Workshops was another important feature at in-cosmetics Asia and delved into: Regulations for Exporting to Europe, delivered by Jean-Jacques Bourgois of Biorius, and Basic and Advanced Formulation, presented by Prof Dr Johann Wiechers of JW Solutions. Attendance again was high – with delegates from Asia, Europe and Africa taking part – providing further evidence of the show’s growing appeal to international visitors. Sarah Gibson, in-cosmetics Asia exhibition manager, added: “The Workshops were very well-received – with most delegates saying they would like to see them take place over another day to allow them to spend more time with the experts!”

The exhibition

One of the big launches at in-cosmetics Asia 2010 was the introduction of EcoSmooth from Dow Personal Care. This is a new family of conditioning polymers that do not contain silicone, yet still match silicone in wet and dry combing. “EcoSmooth Conditioning Polymers are different – they represent a completely new approach to providing conditioning benefits in personal care products, and are a valuable tool in the formulator’s toolbox. The polymers are not cationic, which is the predominant conditioning technology today,” said Courtney Fretz, strategic marketing manager for hair care, Dow Personal Care. Especially effective with Asian and European virgin (non-dyed) hair types, EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers have been proven externally to match silicone in wet and dry combing, as well as minimise hair breakage compared with silicone-containing shampoos. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers do not use the traditional co-acervation mechanisms associated with cationic conditioners. They bind hydrophobically to the hair shaft and replace fatty acids stripped from the cuticle. French company, Javenech, was promoting its photo protection active, Arginine DNA. This product is extracted from salmon milt in strict conditions to preserve properties of the fundamental polymer. Its properties include the diminishing of photo-induced lesions to DNA cells, and also reduces free radical aggression. Although it is not a sun filter, it does absorb the long wavelengths that destroy DNA cells. The product can be used for daily protection, sun care and anti-ageing products. Among the international exhibitors, there were a good number of local manufacturers, including Phuket Abalone Farm. This company began life as an abalone cultivator before making the move to extraction and R&D. A new product from Phuket Abalone Farm promoted at in-cosmetics Asia is “ASACollagen” which is formed by three alpha-chains of peptide type I and II, “the triple helix collagen”, and stimulates the natural biological process of fibroblast cell renewal and regenerating the supply of collagen. Spanish company, Cobiosa, spoke to Personal Care about “Dragon’s Blood”, the company’s skin care product (INCI Name: Propanediol, Water, Croton Lechleri Resin Powder). It is a hydro-glycolic extract from the latex of the tree Croton lechleri, and has a range of benefits to the skin as well as being ECOCERT validated. The benefits include antiinflammatory and wound healing effect, thanks to its high content of taspine and polyphenols. It supports skin repair and regeneration and improves skin barrier function, acting as a second skin. Nanoegg, a company based in Japan, was at the show to promote its “N-Cube” compound. N-Cube enhances skin homeostasis (self-healing) as well as having anti-ageing, skin brightening and moisturisation benefits. Skin permeability is also enhanced, resulting in greater active/drug ingredient effectiveness. When the gel is applied to the skin, a momentary change occurs to the intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum. The affected stratum corneum will return to its original state straight away due to homeostasis. Via this induced process, skin regeneration is known to be greatly enhanced, stimulating the improvement of wrinkles and pigmented spots. The Bangkok show was the venue for the official launch of Mibelle’s Sunflower Shoot Active (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Aqua/Water). It is a purified extract of organic sunflower shoots. Shoots have naturally occurring levels of nutrients (vitamins, antioxidants and phyto-nutrients) higher than the corresponding mature plant. Gene array analysis as well as in vitro studies performed on fibroblasts and on reconstructed epidermis showed the capacity of Sunflower Shoot Active to reverse the ageing process by stimulating the cellular production of energy and antioxidants; stimulating the build-up of ECM proteins and inhibiting their degradation by MMP and by reinforcing the skin barrier. Sunflower Shoot Active is ECOCERT certified with 99.5% of ingredients from natural origin.