A renewable, biodegradable substitute for petrolatum

The usage of petrolatum in cosmetics has been under scrutiny recently, particularly within the EC, due to the potential carcinogen and mutagenic effects attributed to traces of impurities generated during its manufacturing process.1

Even though these questions have been around for a while, its unsurpassable properties as an occlusive have made difficult its replacement in hydrating and moisturising products. But the enforcement of REACH2 in Europe has accelerated the process, which is the reason why we have focused on searching for (and finding) a viable substitute. The objective of this study was to test a possible substitute to solid vaseline (petrolatum) to replace it advantageously in treatment creams with a natural, renewable non-toxic and ecologically sound product. We tried to scientifically prove that the material called “soybean wax” (Glycine Soja (soybean) Oil + Hydrogenated Soybean Oil) can accomplish that function. In this work, we have compared the cosmetic performance of a type of soybean wax (Hydrogenated Soybean Oil + Glycine Soja (soybean) Oil), comparing it within an emulsion with its analog formulated with solid vaseline. We conducted two types of measurements:

Objective (Instrumental)

We compared, by means of a Corneometer – Sebumeter, the wetting and oiliness on the forearms of the members of a human panel. Moreover, we compared by means of a Lubrimeter the lubricity of both emulsions.

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