Investigating the physiology of acne

Acne is a skin condition which affects 90% of teenagers around the world. Understanding acne physiology is the first step in the development of an active cosmetic product targeting this particular section of the population.

In some countries (for example the US, Australia, Japan) products referring to acne are considered “Drugs” or “OTC Drugs”. By taking this viewpoint, would this mean that acne is a disease? If this was considered to be the case, and with 90% of the teenage population affected, this would be a very serious health problem in these countries! On the other side, in countries falling under the EU and ASEAN regions, products treating acne are considered to be “cosmetics” provided their main function is cosmetic (i.e. washing, maintaining a good condition, etc.). Acne can be categorised in three types depending on the visible skin lesions:

•  Mild: characterised by papules/pustules +/++ and absence of nodule.
•  Moderate: characterised by papules/pustules ++/+++ and nodules +/++.
•  Severe: characterised by papules/pustules +++/++++ and nodules +++.

Cosmetic products in this area are defined by the fact that they are intended to “help” mild and moderate acne sufferers to improve their skin appearance. They do not proclaim to have a permanent effect or “cure” severe acne.

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