FEATURE ARTICLES

The 2013 in-cosmetics will take place at Hall 1, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France on 16-18 April. in-cosmetics brings together the world’s leading personal care ingredients specialists exhibiting the most diverse range of innovative cosmetics ingredients and technologies.

So called ‘Neurocosmetics’ are based on and formulated by the NICE (Nervous, Immune, Cutaneous, and Endocrine systems) and the TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) approach.

Anti-ageing products have become the most important area of the personal care market in Europe. Anti-ageing is the highest grossing facial skin care segment in the UK, Italy, Spain and France.

By Daniel Whitby - Cornelius Group, UK - The first sun care ingredients were believed to have been introduced in the late nineteenth century leading to the eventual launch of the sun care brands, Hamilton’s Sunburn Creams and Ambre Solaire in the early to mid-1930s.

In efficacy testing and claim support for cosmetic products, objective measurement systems became indispensable long ago, especially since subjective clinical assessments are often prone to bias and inter-observer variation.

Solar radiation is essential for life on Earth from photosynthesis in plants to vitamin D generation in humans.1 However, excess sun exposure causes various damaging effects in human beings.2,3 The Sun emits radiation in a wide spectrum of wavelengths (see Fig. 1).

The range of clay-based additives manufactured by Rockwood Additives Limited is perhaps best known for its rheology modification properties in both aqueous and organic based formulations, enabling the formulator to exploit the extremely shearthinning and thixotropic properties of these products to provide suspension, viscosity and storage stability in formulations that range from high viscosity gels that can be sprayed, to pourable liquids capable of suspending particulates.

Skin ageing is commonly revealed by the appearance of wrinkles and loss of tone. Those cutaneous signs of ageing are predominantly caused by an excessive exposure to UV radiation – actinic ageing – and thus more apparent on skin sites exposed to the sun. In addition to an obvious change in surface topography, skin ageing in UV-exposed skin areas is also betrayed by the appearance of age spots that are characterised by a localised hyperpigmentation.

Nowadays, uneven skin pigmentation and spots are considered a major sign of skin ageing, affecting lots of people all over the world. Hyperpigmentation is mainly due to the presence of melanin, which is synthesised by the tyrosinase enzyme.

Mulberry root extract is a type of extract obtained from the bark of mulberry roots. It contains flavonoids and is used as a Chinese herbal medicine with diuretic, antitussive and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also used in a wide variety of whitening cosmetic products since it is a very powerful tyrosinase activation inhibitor.

Dry skin is a common problem that influences the ability to cope with the constant external environmental aggressions of the modern world. Hydrated skin is supple, flexible, soft, and smooth, and appears young and healthy.1,2 Water is essential for the normal functioning of the skin, especially for the stratum corneum (SC), which is a selectively permeable, heterogeneous, composite outer layer of the skin.3

The first lipstick saw the light of day in 1883. At the World Exhibition in Amsterdam, a Parisian perfumer presented a mixture of deer tallow, beeswax and coloured castor oil; wrapped in tissue paper it was therefore jokingly called ‘saucisse’ (sausages).

Dermatological tests in accordance with scientific criteria are of decisive value for the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. Latest alterations in the European legislation emphasise this fact. Whether a cosmetic product is well tolerated or causes irritations or allergic reactions must be proven by dermatological tests.

Oils are an essential component to provide natural lustre, lubricity and an emollient feeling to hair care products. Therefore different natural oils are commonly used in rinse-off and leave-in products for hair conditioning benefits.

Ageing affects all levels of the skin. From the stratum corneum downwards ageing creates corneocyte dysfunction, epidermal atrophy, dysplasia and abnormal pigmentation (Fig. 1).

Sustainability is an inconsistently defined term, and not solely in the personal care industry. For the purposes of this article, we will accept a commonly accepted definition as laid out in The Future of Sustainability:1 “The core of mainstream sustainability thinking has become the idea of three dimensions, environmental, social and economic sustainability.”

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (shea butter) is widely used in personal care and cosmetics1–5 as a moisturiser and emollient. While shea butter has grown in importance within the industry, there is little in the way of clinical studies showing its efficacy in skin care.

The rapid growth of green biotechnologies in personal care is made evident by the increased number of products based on plant stem cells.

Making Cosmetics is an exhibition with services, workshops and demonstrations featuring the latest information, answers, ideas about sourcing, for manufacturing and outsourcing personal care products from start to finish and taking them from concept to consumer.

Dr Andrea Mitarotonda holds a PhD in Industrial & Applied Chemistry, specialising in colloid and polymer chemistry, and a Diploma in Innovation Project Management. He currently heads the R&D department at Neal’s Yard Remedies, based in their eco-factory in Dorset, UK.