Biofunctional offers telomere approach to anti-ageing

Organised to respond to consumer needs, the cosmetic industry has an excellent track record in creating and bringing innovation to the marketplace. In fact, every year, R&D professionals explore new pathways with the potential to address cosmetic benefits more effectively, and depending on the results of those studies, new products become available in the marketplace based on some very dynamic approaches to skin care. In parallel to major scientific discoveries in biology, and biological processes, an entirely new series of cosmetic breakthroughs are ready for the marketplace. Called biofunctionals, these offerings are distinguished by a scientific approach that is new to the cosmetics market. Biofunctionals offer brand managers an important forward-thinking set of technology to promote and position new products as highly innovative and scientific. Two major biofunctional technologies have the potential to change the way our industry makes and sells skin care products. The first one is linked to the investigation of the role of sirtuins in the skin, a family of genes and proteins linked to longevity; and the second, more recent discovery has given rise to the launch of biofunctionals based around the science of stem cells. Our understanding of ageing is constantly evolving and now research within the scientific community is honing in on the level of DNA and the level of genes to better comprehend processes associated with ageing. Having found what is believed to be an association between the breakdown of telomeres and ageing, the telomere approach to anti-ageing will likely be, in the coming years, the next breakthrough in the field of cosmetic science and most likely become one of the next major cosmetic anti-ageing trends.1 The discovery of telomeres, a nucleotide sequence which cap and protect cell chromosomes is a considerable scientific move forward. This non-coding element of DNA has been illustrated in scientific publications to play a critically important role in ageing. Research has shown that telomeres play a role in cell division as they help preserve DNA information. As ageing occurs, however, telomeres shorten with each cell division, losing dozens of base pairs per year. The discovery has captured the attention of the scientific community and many within the general public. Today it is not rare to read a press article or see a programme on television that talks about the importance of telomeres, linking them to ageing and longevity. Based on the observation of these growing trends around telomeres, the Global Skin Research Centre of Ashland Inc. has developed a new approach to anti-ageing.

A unique approach: telomeres and the shelterin complex

The shelterin complex is essential for telomere function, telomere maintenance, and connections with intracellular signalling pathways. Six telomere-associated proteins, TRF1, TRF2, POT1, RAP1, TIN2 and TPP1 form this complex, also known as the telosome (Fig. 1). Telomeres form a loop structure by the binding of the shelterin proteins and have fundamental roles in the stability and protection of chromosomes ends (Fig. 2). The novel biofunctional extract, tradename Telosense™, focuses on the shelterin protein TRF2 which has been shown to decrease with ageing.1 This new biofunctional ingredient, a complex of hydrolysed yeast and soya proteins, is inspired by the science of telomeres and the shelterin complex. The ingredient has been shown in vitro to maintain the expression of Telomeric Repeat Factor 2 (TRF2) – as noted above a key protein of the shelterin complex which helps to prevent telomere shortening.