As far back as the ancient Egyptians people have wanted to look their best. That particular advanced civilisation had an amazing array of beauty tools to enhance their natural looks, including products to get rid of stretch marks, minimise wrinkles and promote hair growth, as well as the powders and paints they used to create the very stylised make-up they wore.
Later, the Greeks and Romans also prized their appearance and created their own beauty-enhancing formulations, such as sheep fat mixed with blood for nail polish. Throughout the Middle Ages, Renaissance, Elizabethan and Georgian eras the desire to look good and keep up with trends continued. These included whitening the skin with lead, which unfortunately was absorbed by the skin and caused many nasty side effects; with prolonged use it could even result in death. Then there was the desire for fair hair, so came about the fad for bleaching it with lye. Alas, this caused it to fall out, so a trend for wigs was perpetuated. The attitude towards cosmetics changed with the most prudish of our ancestors – the Victorians. The ideal feminine beauty at this time had luxuriant fair hair, a lily-white complexion, rosy cheeks and a youthful appearance. Using cosmetics to emulate this look was considered scandalous – only actresses and prostitutes wore make-up. However, advancing years were enough to prompt the most staid of middle-aged ladies to drastic action, and many flocked to Madame Rachel – a Bond Street beautician who practised the dubious art of “enamelling” – filling in wrinkles with an arsenic and white lead paste. Thankfully, attitudes as well as science have moved on. The beauty industry grew throughout the 20th century to become the multi-billion pound industry sector it is today. Previously, the market was split into distinct and separate sectors: colour, skin, sun, body and hair care. More recently, the lines between these have become increasingly blurred; a trend which will undoubtedly continue. The colour cosmetics sector was traditionally driven solely by seasonal changes. While this is still the case, we are seeing more and more skin care claims filtering through into colour cosmetic products.
Product types
Foundations
For several years now, foundations which exhibit anti-ageing properties have been available, and today most new launches have some kind of skin benefit. Some more diverse claims are explored below, and some examples of which materials can achieve similar claims are also discussed. No7’s Beautifully Matte Foundation balances oil production, reduces shine and minimises the appearance of blemishes and pores. Reduction in pore size is often achieved using astringent materials such as witch hazel. Blemish control can include the use of AHAs and BHAs to increase cell turnover and prevent pores clogging, a potential cause of comedones, while antimicrobial materials such as triclosan are often employed to prevent infection and formation of spots. P-Refinyl is used in the formulation. This natural active, derived from lentils, targets enlarged pores and uneven skin grain. In vivo testing proved triple action effects: significant reduction in sebum production on cheeks and forehead; restoring normal keratinisation process resulting in less pore dilation; and significantly reducing pore area for a tighter and finer skin grain. Unlike most pore-refining treatments, this active is not astringent and is therefore less irritating. Clarins’ Extra Firming Foundation is aimed at women over the age of 40. Its triple action formula targets three major areas of concern for ageing skin: it smoothes the complexion, minimises lines and wrinkles and boosts radiance. With continued use, facial features are said to be visibly reshaped and skin is firmer. Active molecules ?-glucans and rhamnogalacturonans, derived from black pepper berries, are particularly effective at remodelling the contours of the face. This makes it an ideal choice for mature skin products. In vivo tests show that these molecules improve the firmness and tone of slackened skin due to their efficacy at preserving the structural and supporting properties of the reticular dermis. Tensor effect materials can be used to give a feeling of immediate skin tightening. Tensor effect material can include synthetic polymers as well as plant-derived materials of carefully selected molecular weight proteins or glucan biopolymers. Traditionally the effect would be short-lived, but there are now materials available which give up to 30 minutes tensing effect confirmed by in vivo testing panels. Rimmel’s Lasting Finish 25Hour foundation is said to look as good the following day as when it was first applied. Long-lasting foundation formulations are achieved by formulating with volatile materials such as cyclomethicone and non-greasy esters such as hydrogenated polyisobutene. Synthetic film-forming polymers, such as polyurethane-1 or acrylates copolymer are added to hold the pigments on the skin. Natural polymers can also be used for this purpose; a polyose purified fraction obtained from oats is an ideal addition to a long-lasting foundation. This molecule improved make-up wear in 72% of testers. Maybelline Eraser Foundation has a patented applicator, and a concentrated SPF 18 formula which is enriched with collagen and goji berries. It has been created to conceal dark circles, fine lines and imperfections for a flawless look, while improving skin elasticity. The patented applicator, a built-in foundation sponge which micro-fills and smoothes imperfections, is another way for the brand to distinguish their product from the competition. It also provides the best application of the product, enhancing its performance. Pro-Coll-One+ from Silab is a naturally-derived active which boosts collagen I synthesis and consolidates the dermal mattress to strongly reduce wrinkles. Antioxidant/free radical effects can be achieved by addition of tocopherol acetate as well as extracts of plant material such as goji berries. The active component is often a polyphenol or phenolic acid. Apple skinderived flavanols and chalcones have free radical-scavenging properties that protect DNA. Protein oxidisation mechanisms are limited, cells are protected from lipoperoxidation, and genetic mutations, induced by DNA lesions, are prevented. Shiseido has launched Sun Protection Liquid Foundation SPF 42 which has been designed to be resistant to sweat, oil and water. The challenge of achieving high SPF with UVA/UVB balanced protection without negating the formula’s pleasant feel, particularly required for facial products, is difficult. In the product group of foundations we have seen brands striving for the lightestfeeling foundation possible, with mousse effect product and claims of “cashmere skin feel” used repeatedly. BASF’s Tinosorb S Aqua (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) enables part of the sunscreen in the oil phase to be replaced with a broad-spectrum water-soluble alternative. Ethylhexyl triazone provides a high level of UVB protection and can be used in conjunction with diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate to give broadspectrum coverage. Using 5% of each will give a SPF of 20 with 3 star UVA protection. Addition of 5% active bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine takes the SPF up to 30, and use of titanium dioxide allows an SPF 50 product to be achieved.
Concealers
This type of make-up is particularly easy to add benefits to. If it is for the under-eye, actives which decrease dark circles and lines can be added, and if it is for covering blemishes then spot control ingredients can be used. Garnier’s Caffeine Anti-dark Circles 2-in-1 Tinted Eye Roll On is currently a very popular product. It has a refreshing, hydrating formulation containing caffeine to actively address dark circles, while mineral pigments disguise the problem immediately. The brand has now launched 2-in-1 Tinted Spot Roll-On, which provides long-lasting coverage provided by a high concentration of mineral pigments, while the HerbaSoothe active targets the spot, helping to calm and soothe. For under-eye products, chemicals such as flavonoids, e.g. hesperidin derivatives, have been used in the past to claim reduction of dark circles based on oral dosage research, showing that it can aid integrity of blood vessels. Yeast-derived oligosaccharides remodel the capillary network by stimulating neovascularisation and increasing capillary resistance, and is recommended for use in all eye contouring and anti-dark circle treatments. Oligosaccharides and oligopeptides derived from a combination of white lupine and alfalfa decongest, drain and tone the eye area. Lymph drainage is stimulated and metabolic synthesis is boosted, which improves firmness and tone. To reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin, hydroxybenzoic compounds from Boerhavia diffusa root are very effective. Comfort is achieved with its anti-irritant action, while anti-inflammatory neuro-mediators provide relief for sensitive skin both in the short-term and for longlasting comfort. Microbial infection is an aggravating factor of acne. Inclusion of an active in a spot concealer, which helps skin to fight against such infection, must be of considerable benefit to the formulation. Triclosan and tea tree oil are commonly used. Phenolic acids purified from meadowsweet stimulate the synthesis of the skin’s own natural antibiotics that help it to fight against microbial infection. Known to have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, meadowsweet phenolic acids also have anti-seborrheic properties which were tested in in vivo studies on 20 volunteers. Results showed that 71% of the volunteers presented a reduction in the surface occupied by spots.
Lips
Despite lip product formulations often being anhydrous and humectant-free, many recent product launches in the lip colour sector are making moisturisation claims. Revlon’s Just Bitten is a two-in-one lipstain and balm. The nourishing formula provides comfort, moisture and soft shine for lips. M&S Essential Colours Moisturising Lipstick has been designed to retain moisture levels. Biotherm Smile Shine provides silky smooth shine and sheer colour. Vitamin E moisturises and SPF 12 protection shields lips from further damage. In dry lips, microlesion repair can be accelerated with oligogalactomannans derived from carob seeds. The recovery capacity of damaged skin is improved. In vivo tests show the efficacy of such an active: for 14 days at 3%, following tape stripping, there was a significant reduction of red colour caused by aggression, improving recovery of the barrier function after aggression (TEWL). Compared to a control group the testers reported reduced cracks/damage and better-nourished, less dry, less damaged and softer lips. Vitamin E increases the moistureretaining ability of the epidermis and improves the softness and suppleness of the skin, and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Mascara
The results obtained from a mascara have as much to do with the brush as with the formulation itself. However, new technologies are making it easier to create more intense lashes and there are actives which help lash condition and also improve the wear of the product. Chanel’s Inimitable Intense Mascara has a “technologically advanced” formula, delivering dramatic effects with a unique brush. Lashes appear longer, thicker and more curled, yet each lash is still precisely separated – without, clumping or flaking. It utilises acacia Senegal gum extract which creates a natural barrier on the lashes, helping to lock on the colour and hold curl in place. To emulate a similar natural claim in mascara, the formulator may consider Lonza’s LaraCare A200 (INCI: Galactoarabinan). Extracted from the larch tree, it is a highly functional polysaccharide. This natural polymer provides many unique benefits in personal care applications, including film-forming properties. DiorShow Maximizer Lash Plumping Serum is a smoothing, nourishing base serum that creates an even base for mascara. It also promotes long-term lash growth, strength, and vitality. The light, quick-drying formula is said to be the first “active serum” mascara primer, and contains a unique cell-conditioning complex made up of hydrolysed soy proteins that promote long-term lash growth, strength, and vitality. Research results from the Dior Innovation Center found, after only eight weeks’ use, an increase in volume of 52%, a 38% increase in length, and 73% increase in curl. A polymer composed of quaternised soy proteins provides an optimal coating effect on the hair. It spreads over the hair as a continuous elastic film, shielding it against mechanical, environmental and chemical aggressors. The substantive film forms a protective coat which increases hair volume and smoothness.
Future possibilities
As we see the make-up and body care sectors begin to merge, there is every chance in the future that we will see as many actives in these types of formulation. One such product is Extend And Perfect Gradual Fake Tan from Sienna X, which has the added benefits of moisturising aloe vera oil, as well as anti-cellulite actives. To continue the trend, future launches could include leg foundations with actives to reduce cellulite, or minimise hair re-growth or even prevent ingrown hairs. Other possibilities are spray tans with tanning actives, like Silab’s Biotanning, or firming actives to help contour the body, or perhaps ingredients to minimise stretch marks. There is certainly a lot of scope to promote colour cosmetics which work hard for the consumer. Table 1 explores some claims that could be made.
References
• thehistoryofbeauty.net
• erasofelegance.com
• dailymail.co.uk/The-ugly-face-of-Victorian-beauty
• BASF Sunscreen Simulator (www.cosmetics.basf.de/ sunscreen_simulator.aspx)
• Silab in vivo and in vitro test data
• Ohtsuki K, Abe A, Mitsuzumi H et al. Glucosyl hesperidin improves serum cholesterol composition and inhibits hypertrophy in vasculature. J Nutr Sci Vitaminol 2003; 49 (6): 447-50. PMID 14974738 – tested on hypertensive rats.
