At in-cosmetics 2011, Mibelle Biochemistry presented three new products, PhytoCellTec Argan, LIPerfection and SunActin.
PhytoCellTec Argan is the first cosmetic ingredient that targets dermal stem cells. Exhaustion of dermal fibroblasts is the very early onset of wrinkle formation and loss of firmness. Dermal stem cells are essential for a lifelong regeneration and repair of this delicate skin layer. But in contrast to the well characterised epidermal stem cells, the origin of dermal stem cells had yet to be identified. Indeed, it was only recently demonstrated that the dermal papilla is a niche for dermal stem cells. These cells expressed the stem cell marker gene Sox2 and showed the tendency to grow in colonies in the form of spheres. Mibelle Biochemistry identified the number and size of these spheres as perfect parameters to evaluate the effect of cosmetic actives on dermal stem cells. PhytoCellTec Argan, a cosmetic ingredient that is based on plant stem cells of Argania spinosa, was discovered to be able to clearly augment the number of spheres. Consequently, PhytoCellTec Argan is the very first cosmetic active that is capable of both protecting and vitalising human dermal stem cells. This will not only help to accelerate the skin’s natural repair process, but also uniquely provide a second chance to every type of skin.
LIPerfection is a new ingredient to boost the lips’ volume for luscious, voluminous lips. The ingredient’s effect is based on a pungent flavour compound that was extracted from mustard shoots. This plant compound, called Sinalbin, is known to increase the capillary blood flow and to cause thereby redness and a feeling of warmth when applied to the skin and mucous membranes. The shoots of the mustard plants are especially rich in Sinalbin. In a clinical, placebo-controlled study over 14 days with 18 women, a cream with 2% LIPerfection was found to clearly increase the lip volume. Compared to the placebo, the LIPerfection cream induced also an immediate 10% increase in hydration. Laser Doppler measurements showed that the LIPerfection cream was indeed increasing the skin capillary blood flow when applied to the inner side of the forearms. The effect was maximal 15 minutes after application and completely absent in the control cream.
SunActin is a combination of an extract of sunflower shoots and vitamin E. SunActin confers significant protection against photo-ageing of the skin. UV radiation is known to cause premature ageing of the skin by inducing an oxidative stress. The shoots of the sunflower have developed a very efficient defence system against oxidative stress. Formulated into an SPF 30 sun cream, SunActin was shown to clearly protect additionally against the formation of sunburn cells in skin explants. SunActin was also found to boost the SPF value of sun creams.