Bioactive ingredients from marine macroalgae

Seaweed derived products can provide both cosmetic and therapeutic assistance to this constantly rehabilitated tissue.1 Brown seaweed contains a remarkable fucose-rich sulfated polysaccharide called “fucoidan” which has marked biological activities. These include a blocking effect on receptors for viruses2 in addition to an anti-inflammatory effect.3 Fucoidan has been shown to modulate TGF-beta activity in wound repopulation models which may reduce scarring.8 Seaweed also contains pigments to assist in UV protection in their natural habitat. The potent antioxidant pigments called “polyphloroglucinols” found in brown macroalgae have a particularly strong protective effect against UV induced ageing processes.4,5 Other research indicates that seaweed bioactives have profound activity in fields as diverse as stem cell mobilisation6 and immune cell maturation.7 Hemopoietic stem cells give rise to the immune cell population in the body. Undaria pinnatifida seaweed derived fucoidan was shown to increase the number of hemopoetic stem cells that are released in the blood circulation, and also the expression of receptors that may ultimately assist those cells in lodging in various tissues.6 Fucoidans can even assist in protection against whole body radiation, a rather extreme example of the potential for biological defence.9 Whole seaweed baths and milled seaweed pastes have a record of use in “thalassotherapy” in spa situations. Historically, seaweed was an old remedy for scrofula (a form of tuberculosis affecting the skin) and for sore joints.10 Marinova has recently determined that ingestion of a seaweed extract blend can significantly reduce the symptoms of osteoarthritis of the knee.11 Modest antituberculosis activity of seaweed extracts has been also confirmed by modern research.12–14 Both fucoidan and polyphoroglucinols have demonstrated cosmetic benefits including the direct potent inhibition of matrix degrading enzymes such as elastase and collagenase.15,16 Elastase inhibition is an especially important aspect of effective cosmetic active ingredients, as UV-induced elastase activity is a key activator of wrinkles.17 Glycation, the non-enzymatic attachment of sugars to proteins, is also a marker for ageing skin. Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are nonenzymatically glycosylated proteins, which accumulate in ageing or damaged tissues.18 Some receptors for AGEs can be blocked by fucoidan, thereby reducing accumulation19,20 and seaweed polyphenols have been demonstrated to inhibit glycation.21 Thus, seaweed-derived ingredients can potentially inhibit glycation formation and accumulation processes. Comprehensive daily benefits can be achieved by using skincare products containing algal ingredients and by ingesting products derived from marine algae.

New topical active ingredients with clinical trial data

Two novel cosmetic bioactives derived from marine macroalgae have recently been developed by the Australian company, Marinova. A unique extraction process results in water soluble powdered ingredients with significant skin benefits. The products were developed after extensive in vitro screening to achieve maximum activity as matrix breakdown and glycation inhibitors. Unusually, both products were derived from Organic certified sources. Both products were assessed as non-phototoxic and not primary irritants. The first product, Maritech Bright, is an ingredient derived from Fucus vesiculosus seaweed. Researchers have previously shown that simple Fucus vesiculosus fucoidan has benefits as a skin active, decreasing skin thickness and increasing elasticity.22 The product contains the antioxidant properties of marine polyphenols complexed with Fucus vesiculosus fucoidan creating a powerful cosmetic solution to UV-induced ageing. It imparts a clinically apparent multifaceted benefit to ageing Asian skin types. In vitro screening indicated that the product inhibited a variety of matrix degrading enzymes including elastase and collagenase, and the pigment forming enzyme tyrosinase. The non-enzymatic glycation process was also blocked by the extract. The product has profound antioxidative properties as indicated by an extremely high ORAC value of 4000 TE/g. Clinical studies on 10 female Asian subjects over three months resulted in both the evening of skin tone and a dramatic effect on skin texture and wrinkles. As illustrated in Figure 1, skin texture and tone is noticeably improved. The second product, Maritech Reverse, is an Undaria pinnatifida seaweed derived complex suited to ageing and recovering skin. Preclinical screening illustrated excellent inhibition of the matrix degrading enzyme elastase and non-enzymatic glycation. The product also has an unusual extra activity – the inhibition of the cold sore virus2 – making it ideal for specialty products such as post-surgical care. In a clinical trial Caucasian women applied cream containing the second product at 1% concentration twice daily over a period of 12 weeks. The wrinkles around the eye were assessed with silicone impressions and profilimetry. On average, there was a decrease in roughness of 7.93% and a decrease in wrinkle depth of 9.45%. Elasticity of the skin was assessed using a cutometer. There was a 16.9% increase in recovery after deformation and a 17.1% decrease in visco-elastic portion indicating a clinically positive effect. Subjects completed a questionnaire to assess their impressions of the test product. After 12 weeks, 8/10 somewhat agreed that there was a significant improvement in skin firmness, tightness and elasticity. An expert grader assessed skin quality and determined that an average of 68.4% improvement in overall skin appearance occurred over the trial period. After 12 weeks a significant improvement, as determined by the skin expert, was noted in all categories (Table 1) and is evident in Figure 2. Individual results for the subject in Figure 2 are listed in Table 2. Both cosmetic actives contain the seaweed component fucoidan. As discussed earlier, this component is known to inhibit UVB induced aging processes,4 modulate scarring via TGF-beta8 and is an inhibitor of skin matrix degrading enzymes.15 Maritech Bright also contains a powerful marine polyphloroglucinol giving the extract additional complementary beneficial activities. These clinical results are the first demonstration that the topical application of these actives can deliver a genuine and measurable advantage.