Innovation in skincare: an insight into new launches

This trend is largely being driven by consumer desire and an increasing presence of European brands being retailed in Asia. Organic and “all natural” claims are prominent across the skincare category. When looking on a global level, Mintel witnessed an increase of products being launched with an organic claim across 2009, which is particularly significant given the global economic climate. An organic or natural claim is being used to immediately put the consumer at ease and imply that the product will be gentle towards the skin. With 34% of UK consumers believing there are too many unnecessary chemicals in cosmetics and, when possible, 29% only use natural or organic products, communicating an organic/natural message appears to be resonating with today’s skincare consumer. While organic formulas are driving appeal, we can not overlook the necessity for results. A key trend for 2010, highlighted by Mintel Beauty Innovation, is the emergence of Nu Natural. This details how the industry is moving towards a new vision of natural and organic which focuses less on certification and more on performance. We are witnessing brands with quite radically different backgrounds moving towards the same Nu Natural space. For example, organic brands are formulating with high tech actives and conversely, cosmeceutical brands are adding organic actives to their products. Examples of this can be seen in both the UK and US markets. An organic brand, created by two “city mums” in London and formulated by Hollywood dermatologist, Dr Lazarus, uses derma-bio nano technology and contains five different peptides that improve collagen production as well as hyaluronic acid, allantoin, red marine algae and organic extracts. From the other end of the scale, an example comes from Dermaheal with their “2 Weeks Miracle Rise n Shine Brightening Programme”. This cosmeceutical brand is offering a 100% organic and preservative-free skincare solution. The product uses growth factor mimicking peptides which are identical to skin cell molecules, and nanoencapsulated natural plant ingredients. Taking the next step along the line to more science-based claims within the skincare market, Mintel Beauty Innovation shined the spotlight on “Turbo Beauty” (brands capitalising on advances in biochemistry and medicine) as a key area of innovation. Brands are continuously executing new ways of getting consumer attention via this mechanism to express the message of expertise and address consumer concerns over the effectiveness of skincare products. An example of this comes from French pharmacy brands. Derma-skincare brands have a long heritage in French pharmacies, where trained pharmacists offer impartial advice on skin health concerns and suitable product routines. More product launches within this market are making the most of these expert associations which raises the question, can other markets benefit from the experience of this French example? Can new links with professional industries be created to further reassure the consumer that the product is safe, made from high quality ingredients and performs to a high standard? Vichy claims to be the number one skincare brand within European pharmacies and employs a highly scientific approach with their Liftactiv Retinal HA range which claims to target three types of wrinkles (permanent, reversible and programmed-to- appear) simultaneously. The Total Wrinkle Plumping Night Care product is formulated with a tri-dose of hyaluronic acid and retinol A for a resurfacing effect. The product also features a patented new multi-directional aerosol nozzle and a double phase preparation texture that provides a fresh fluid application and a smooth matte finish.

Nutricosmetics

While on the theme of innovative application methods, a growing area of experimentation comes in the form of ingestible beauty. Asia is generally regarded as the leading region in this category which has largely been driven by consumers who are open to the more diverse methods of beauty enhancement. However, Europe has experienced more launch activity than Asia with regard to beauty supplements. Globally, we are seeing the shift of different approaches to ingestible beauty. For example, the use of antioxidant superfuits became established in western markets and is now increasing in popularity the east, whereas ingestible collagen and hyaluronic acid built up a firm foundation in the east and is now making its way into western markets. A good indication of the popularity of ingestible beauty is found when looking at the sheer number of product launches within this area over the last few years. Functional beauty benefit claims doubled from 2008 to 2009. A great example of an ingestible skincare product comes from Christidis, with Beauty to Go! which capitalises on the time-starved consumer by making it extremely easy to maintain skin health. The non-carbonated water contains 20.6 mg/L of silica which helps improve skin moisturisation and enhance the tension and elasticity of tissue by supporting the production of collagen.