Skinasensyl from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, is a new generation cosmeceutical ingredient with an innovative mechanism especially designed for people with sensitive skin.
It is a pure synthetic tetrapeptide that decreases nerve stimulation, and thereby increases skin tolerance to environmental factors and known irritants. One of the characteristics of sensitive skin is cutaneous hyper-reactivity to environmental stimuli, points out LS. This means that the skin responds faster and more intensely than it should to factors such as temperature changes, sun, and certain cosmetic and medicinal products. This is a growing concern especially with the rise in cosmeceuticals and home-professional treatments such as microdermabrasion and peels. While skin care products have generally increased in efficacy and specificity of action in recent years, many still tend to cause discomfort to users with very sensitive skin. To enhance the tolerability of such products – so that sensitive skin too can benefit from them without any adverse reaction – LS has developed Skinasensyl. Skinasensyl reduces nerve oversensitivity to external stimuli by decreasing the amount of the pro-inflammatory neuro-mediator calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP) that is produced by the body. This ability to inhibit CGRP release to reduce neuronal stimulation has been demonstrated in vitro to occur via binding to the ì opioid receptor. The soothing effects of Skinasensyl have also been proven in clinical studies, highlighting its ability to increase the skin’s tolerance threshold, and to achieve a corresponding reduction in sensations of pain and discomfort. An in vivo test showed that skin pre-treated with a bi-daily application of Skinasensyl for four days is more tolerant to capsaicin (a positive reference to target neurosensitivity). Furthermore, the immediate soothing effect of Skinasensyl has also been checked for temperature tolerance. This “pain-killer” effect of Skinasensyl can be extended to other stimuli also known to induce neuron stimulation (such as AHAs).