Notable concepts showcased in Amsterdam

A good number of notable concepts were presented. The venue – the Amsterdam RAI – was superb, and most of the participants seemed to like the ambience of the city of Amsterdam, the convenience and location of the venue, and the overall experience of this year’s event.

Following is a round-up of information gathered from some of the exhibitors.

Kahl exhibited its new organic carnauba wax Bio-Carnaubawax 6642, which conforms to the EU-Organic Foodstandard 2092/91. Bio-Carnaubawax 6642 is made from hand-harvested carnauba palm leaves. After drying and threshing the wax is obtained by extraction with hot water. In Kahl’s factory in Germany the wax is carefully melted and then filtered.

Sabinsa was promoting a variety of ingredients: henna (Lawsonia inermis) with lawsone. Sappanwood extract (Caesalpinia sappan) brazilin which transforms on oxidation to the red dyestuff brazilein (in an acidic solution brazilin will appear yellow, but in an alkaline preparation it will appear red). Red sandalwood extract – the heartwood of the red sandalwood tree or Red Sanders (Pterocarpus santalinus Linn.) also known as ruby wood, sanders red, saunderwood, santalwood, raktha chandana. The principal red pigments in red sandal heartwood are santalin A and B, and these are soluble in organic solvents and alkalis, but not in water. Lipotec launched Decelerine, which slows down and decreases hair growth while having a soothing, cooling and anti-inflammatory effect.

Lipotec’s Hilurlip contains particles of sodium hyaluronate, submitted to a technological process after which the particle size is reduced and homogenised up to 1 ìm, enhancing its penetration and efficacy. These small particles swell when they are in contact with skin water, producing a long-term plumping effect on the lips. It also incorporates a RCS scavenger, which protects lips’ skin from the harmful effects of pollution as it plumps, redefines and minimises fine vertical lines, and keeps the lip contour in shape, so providing a more youthful and appealing look.

National Starch launched a range of organic biopolymers to help formulators create certified products that offer high performance.

The Naviance range contains four certified ingredients derived from waxy maize and tapioca that deliver silky feel, mildness and easy incorporation. There are four new organic biopolymers. Naviance Maize is the simplest modifier in the range, which also includes Naviance instant Maize that may be incorporated into cold processed formulations and Naviance Tapioca, providing film formation in addition to rheology modification. The final ingredient in the newly launched line is Naviance Tapioca P, which is an aesthetic enhancer that is designed to give powder formulations a smooth feel but that may also be added to emulsions.

Slimming and firming

BASF was presenting a new slimming and skin firming ingredient – the medical solutions division of the chemical company showed the new ingredient Slim-Excess. This ingredient targets the ever growing market for slimming and firming products, promising to reduce thigh diameter, as well as firming the skin and acting as an anti-cellulite active by beating and boosting effects of caffeine. Slim-Excess, which is derived from a red seaweed, beats slimming ingredient leader caffeine with fast and visible results. However, more importantly, the active also boosts the effects of caffeine as a slimming ingredient.

The clinical trials suggested that Slim- Excess, when used in conjunction with caffeine, was four times as effective as caffeine alone. The ingredient targets and attempts to suppress two effectors, spermine and spermidine, that play multiple roles in adipocyte metabolism. Primarily the two compounds play a role in the creation of lipocytes – fat cells that once created cannot be removed without surgery. In addition the compounds have a positive impact on phosphodiesterase, the target enzyme of caffeine. In other words, spermine and spermidine fight against caffeine treatment, thus explaining the stronger effect that the caffeine can have when in conjunction with a spermine and spermidine inhibiting ingredient. Slim-Excess contains small sugar molecules that interact with the two compounds, effectively trapping them to make them less bioavailable.

S&D Aroma, which specialises in organic and fair traded materials, launched new organic sandalwood oil from Australia which is not only from a sustainable source but also helps support the Aborigine people who harvest it and their culture. The eco-friendly news is that this oil can be extracted from dead wood and yet still has a perfect volatile oil composition. The extractors are also replacing trees at a faster rate than they are using them. S&D Aroma also had new organic broccoli seed oil (Brassica oleracea italica) which is cold pressed using no solvents or chemicals. The fatty acid composition of broccoli is almost unique and is composed of 50% erucic acid. The oil is described as light, non-greasy and easily absorbed.